I am trying to become more current on currency. In Cuba, the complicating factor is that there are two currencies and they're both called pesos! One, however, is worth significantly more - the one intended for visitors to the country.
The currency tourists primarily use is known as the convertible peso or CUC. The acronym is derived from CU for Cuba and C for convertible, like CAD is for Canadian dollars. The just plain Cuban peso (CUP) is actually the national currency. It's required for purchases from government-run stores, public transportation and other necessities of Cuban life. For residents, both types are essential.
The interesting thing to me is that, although the exchange rate for foreign currency to either the CUC or CUP fluctuates daily - just as the CAD to USD conversions do - the in-country rate for CUC to CUP has not changed since 2005. It continues to be 1 CUC = 24 CUP. When I recently checked the exchange rate (late Aug. 2010), $1 CAD = .88 CUC or .04 CUP.
Someone with a better grasp of math might be able to tell you if there is any financial benefit to tipping in CAD rather than CUC but I suspect not, unless you're giving big bills. I'd hazard a guess that it might be more of a hastle for the tippee if the tip is in Loonies or Twoonies because it may necessitate a trip to a bank; CUCs can be spent immediately.
When visiting Marea del Portillo, my recommendation is that you exchange money at the airport - most or all of what you anticipate spending during your stay. There are not a lot of banks in this rural region, especially not within walking distance of the resort. You can generally exchange money at the resort but the airport exchange booth's rate is ever so slightly better.
More importantly, you should be prepared for tipping before you even set foot in the resort lobby! And, you may want to buy a cold drink at the airport for the hour-and-a-quarter bus ride to the resort. Can you say, "Una cerveza por favor?"
A further monetary precaution pertains to credit cards. You can (if you must) exchange U.S. dollars for CUCs while in Cuba, athough it's potentially problematic and there's a significantly higher fee. But, do NOT plan to use a credit card that is affiliated with a U.S. bank. American Express? Leave home without it! Fortunately for Canucks, Canada has a wealth of home-grown banks; take credit cards issued by CIBC, TD, BMO or any non-American financial institution.
My information about money matters comes from several sources and, to the best of my ability, is up-to-date and accurate. Here are some relevant excerpts gleaned from the Havana Times website:
"Money can be changed in Cuba at either of two official institutions: Banks and Casas de Cambio (CADECA or exchange booths)...whether you are exchanging foreign currency for the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC or peso convertible) or CUCs for Cuban Pesos (CUP, moneda nacional or just plain peso)...While the exchange rates for foreign currencies to CUCs change daily, since December 2005 the exchange rate for the CUC to CUP has remained steady at 1 CUC to 24 CUP or pesos...
"You will need CUCs at hotels, many restaurants, for state-operated taxis, domestic travel (plane or bus), entries to museums and other cultural venues, and the so-called “dollar shops,” whereas CUPs or pesos are necessary for public transportation (guaguas or buses), agromercados, at some pesos-only restaurants and bookstores, movies, etc...."
"You can withdraw CUCs against your credit card – as long as the credit card is not issued by a US or US-affiliated bank...foreign currencies, however, including US dollars, are still accepted within the country as currencies of exchange for CUCs (Cuban Convertible Pesos) at banks and CADECA (Casas de Cambio or official exchange booths)...
"[However] the Central Bank of Cuba established an 8% exchange tariff on all currencies when they are exchanged for CUCs, with the exception of the US dollar which has an additional 10% tax that is applied before the 8% exchange rate is calculated, whether the US dollars are held by foreign visitors or nationals. In practical terms, this means an almost 20% devaluation of the US dollar against the CUC."
ONE FINAL NOTE: Don't forget to set aside $25 CUC, if you want to go home! That's the requisite departure tax that is paid at the airport as you exit the country. I don't know what would happen if someone didn't have this fee but I'm sure it would not be a pleasant way to end a nice sojourn in Cuba.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Thursday, August 26, 2010
I chose to walk through an opened door
During the dreary winter of 2008-2009, I was desperate for a beach. I'd been to Costa Rica several times and was keen to go again but the gods of travel were not smiling on such an adventure. The cost of flights was soaring but my beach-sand budget was not. So, I sought a new sun spot.
More by fluke than plan, I ended up on a warm brown beach in Cuba with one of my dearest chums, Martine. We opted for Club Amigo Marea del Portillo mainly because it was cheap; being independent-minded women, we were hesitant to book into an all-inclusive resort. The concept was not our usual style or mode of travel but we talked ourselves into it because the place sounded very laid back and low key. It offered more outdoorsy options than a city-based resort would have and, best of all, it was very affordable. For less than the price of a seat on a plane to Costa Rica, we could spend a week by the ocean in Cuba and everything would be covered - flight, accommodation and the requisites to eat, drink and be merry.
At the end of the week, we both had sore cheeks from smiling so much. We laughed ourselves silly, hiked, swam, danced and had an absolutely fabulous time. And, we discovered, many Canadians considered this humble resort their second home; they returned time and again for happy holidays, warmly welcomed by friends on staff and in the surrounding community. I was not quite hooked yet but I was certainly pleased with our accidental choice of resorts.
That first trip was in April of 2009. By the following fall, I was booked for a second trip to the same place but, once again, it hadn't been at the top of my travel list. Another of my dearest friends, Penny, had finally been talked into going on a husband-free holiday - with me and her sister Laurie. We'd hoped to go to a resort Laurie liked in Costa Rica, in an area I was familiar with. However, prices to that part of the earth were still sky high, so I suggested Cuba. Since I'd had such a great time at Marea del Portillo and had a wealth of photos to show them what the resort was like, I could reassure them they would be quite comfortable there.
By this time, yet another of my dearest friends had signed on - Wendy, who is generally game to go to a beach just about anytime, anywhere. She didn't meet Penny and Laurie until our flight to Cuba but I assured them that all would be well and we would get along fine. It was and we did.
On this trip, Wendy and I got to know Maykel, whom I'd met on my previous visit. We were intrigued by his interest in social justice issues and impressed with his intellect. In one conversation, he mentioned reading Shakespeare and commented that the English was a bit different. Indeed! Wendy and I both had the feeling that he was at some sort of crossroads in his life, and we agreed to do what we could to support and empower him to choose a good path.
I began thinking of ways to work with him to improve the lives of the people of that impoverished rural region. Ideas about possible projects were rambling through my mind in the wee hours of one morning when, all of a sudden, there was a boom, followed by a rumble. Then the bed shook as if it was possessed by a "Magic Fingers" massage device on steroids. Seconds passed. I was now wide awake, so I went out on my balcony to see what I could see.
I saw Wendy on her balcony. (We had second-floor cabana rooms beside each other.) We didn't see a mushroom cloud or any type of smoke, so we concluded there had not been an explosion. It must have been an earthquake, we decided, but wondered if there would be a subsequent tsunami. Being naturally curious, we headed down to the beach to see what was going on. We were fairly certain there would be no tsunami since none of the local animals seemed at all alarmed; they were not heading for high ground, just going about their normal morning routines.
A resident hog hiked toward home, checking the odd garbage can on her way. A frisky filly frolicked. Goats, birds and lizards were doing their usual things. The resort staff was stirring. Wendy and I strolled along the beach and admired the rising sun. We got some great photos - our reward for getting up at 5 a.m.! We also had a good talk; I told her what I'd been thinking about when the earth shook.
I'm not usually inclined to look for "signs" but I couldn't shake the feeling that this was sort of a cosmic confirmation of being on the right track. I felt like my "ah ha" moment - my idea about how I could work with Maykel to benefit the community - had been punctuated by an exclamation mark from the universe.
A door seemed to have been opened and I chose to walk through it. Metaphorically, I'm hiking around in a whole new environment, and I'm lovin' it! I'm not planning on saving the world but I hope to help a few people. That's the impetus behind the projects I've launched and why I've set up this blog.
More by fluke than plan, I ended up on a warm brown beach in Cuba with one of my dearest chums, Martine. We opted for Club Amigo Marea del Portillo mainly because it was cheap; being independent-minded women, we were hesitant to book into an all-inclusive resort. The concept was not our usual style or mode of travel but we talked ourselves into it because the place sounded very laid back and low key. It offered more outdoorsy options than a city-based resort would have and, best of all, it was very affordable. For less than the price of a seat on a plane to Costa Rica, we could spend a week by the ocean in Cuba and everything would be covered - flight, accommodation and the requisites to eat, drink and be merry.
At the end of the week, we both had sore cheeks from smiling so much. We laughed ourselves silly, hiked, swam, danced and had an absolutely fabulous time. And, we discovered, many Canadians considered this humble resort their second home; they returned time and again for happy holidays, warmly welcomed by friends on staff and in the surrounding community. I was not quite hooked yet but I was certainly pleased with our accidental choice of resorts.
That first trip was in April of 2009. By the following fall, I was booked for a second trip to the same place but, once again, it hadn't been at the top of my travel list. Another of my dearest friends, Penny, had finally been talked into going on a husband-free holiday - with me and her sister Laurie. We'd hoped to go to a resort Laurie liked in Costa Rica, in an area I was familiar with. However, prices to that part of the earth were still sky high, so I suggested Cuba. Since I'd had such a great time at Marea del Portillo and had a wealth of photos to show them what the resort was like, I could reassure them they would be quite comfortable there.
By this time, yet another of my dearest friends had signed on - Wendy, who is generally game to go to a beach just about anytime, anywhere. She didn't meet Penny and Laurie until our flight to Cuba but I assured them that all would be well and we would get along fine. It was and we did.
On this trip, Wendy and I got to know Maykel, whom I'd met on my previous visit. We were intrigued by his interest in social justice issues and impressed with his intellect. In one conversation, he mentioned reading Shakespeare and commented that the English was a bit different. Indeed! Wendy and I both had the feeling that he was at some sort of crossroads in his life, and we agreed to do what we could to support and empower him to choose a good path.
I began thinking of ways to work with him to improve the lives of the people of that impoverished rural region. Ideas about possible projects were rambling through my mind in the wee hours of one morning when, all of a sudden, there was a boom, followed by a rumble. Then the bed shook as if it was possessed by a "Magic Fingers" massage device on steroids. Seconds passed. I was now wide awake, so I went out on my balcony to see what I could see.
I saw Wendy on her balcony. (We had second-floor cabana rooms beside each other.) We didn't see a mushroom cloud or any type of smoke, so we concluded there had not been an explosion. It must have been an earthquake, we decided, but wondered if there would be a subsequent tsunami. Being naturally curious, we headed down to the beach to see what was going on. We were fairly certain there would be no tsunami since none of the local animals seemed at all alarmed; they were not heading for high ground, just going about their normal morning routines.
A resident hog hiked toward home, checking the odd garbage can on her way. A frisky filly frolicked. Goats, birds and lizards were doing their usual things. The resort staff was stirring. Wendy and I strolled along the beach and admired the rising sun. We got some great photos - our reward for getting up at 5 a.m.! We also had a good talk; I told her what I'd been thinking about when the earth shook.
I'm not usually inclined to look for "signs" but I couldn't shake the feeling that this was sort of a cosmic confirmation of being on the right track. I felt like my "ah ha" moment - my idea about how I could work with Maykel to benefit the community - had been punctuated by an exclamation mark from the universe.
A door seemed to have been opened and I chose to walk through it. Metaphorically, I'm hiking around in a whole new environment, and I'm lovin' it! I'm not planning on saving the world but I hope to help a few people. That's the impetus behind the projects I've launched and why I've set up this blog.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
I'm learning Spanish from Alex Cuba!
No, he's not teaching me personally, I must reluctantly admit, but I am learning some very nice words and phrases from him, nonetheless.
This excellent Cuban-Canadian musician has cleverly printed his song lyrics in both Spanish and English on his CDs. So, I read along – my tongue still gets tangled when I try to sing along, although I can manage the odd melodic word or two.
I have to say, Alexis Puentes (Alex Cuba is his stage name) is one romantic guy! I enjoy his music but, in truth, I'm not sure if I'll ever use phrases like "amor infinito" in casual conversation. Still, it's fun to practice tuneful pronunciation.
I'll add a link to his website, so you can check him out...I mean, check his music out. Young as he looks, he's the father of three and, at last report, was living happily ever after in Smithers, B.C., with the woman who inspired him to immigrate and, undoubtedly, inspired many of his beautiful love songs.
I think you'll like his music, and the beat's bound to get your feet moving. Now, if I could only find someone to teach me to dance salsa!
This excellent Cuban-Canadian musician has cleverly printed his song lyrics in both Spanish and English on his CDs. So, I read along – my tongue still gets tangled when I try to sing along, although I can manage the odd melodic word or two.
I have to say, Alexis Puentes (Alex Cuba is his stage name) is one romantic guy! I enjoy his music but, in truth, I'm not sure if I'll ever use phrases like "amor infinito" in casual conversation. Still, it's fun to practice tuneful pronunciation.
I'll add a link to his website, so you can check him out...I mean, check his music out. Young as he looks, he's the father of three and, at last report, was living happily ever after in Smithers, B.C., with the woman who inspired him to immigrate and, undoubtedly, inspired many of his beautiful love songs.
I think you'll like his music, and the beat's bound to get your feet moving. Now, if I could only find someone to teach me to dance salsa!
GIFTS: What’s most appreciated?
Canadians, in general, are genuinely generous people. One of the first questions many people planning trips to Cuba ask is “What can we take as gifts?” Canadian travelers truly want to know what’s most needed or wanted by the Cuban people.
I’ve created the list below by blending gift suggestion lists I’ve found on other sites and tossing in a few of my own ideas. For instance, I took some solar-powered yard lights on my last trip and they were a big hit. One friend told me that his family uses them in the house when the power goes out, which is a frequent occurrence in Cuba. The Club Amigo Marea del Portillo resort is equipped with solar hot-water tanks but, for some reason, the technology does not seem readily available for smaller applications or for home use.
Another idea I’ve added is to take spark igniters (usually used for lighting welding torches, available at hardware stores). On my first trip to Marea del Portillo, I asked one fellow what he thought a useful gift would be, for future reference. With little hesitation, he said “Lighters.” I replied that I wasn’t really keen to encourage smoking but he explained that many people cook with gas and, in the humid climate, matches just don’t cut it. Since I don't want to contribute to environmental waste in Cuba by taking disposable lighters, I take the longer-lasting flint igniters instead.
I’ve tried to organize my list in categories, roughly in order of importance. During my previous trips to Cuba, I’ve asked a variety of people for their opinion of what is best to take as gifts. Clothing needs predominate. Much of the clothing and footwear available in Cuba, I’ve been told, is either pricey or poorly made.
Drug store items are also right up there on most folks’ mental lists, although some people are too proud or shy to ask, I’ve learned. Even what Canadians would consider common, necessary medicine-cabinet supplies are out of financial reach for many Cubans. So, hit the dollar store before you pack!
Here’s my list of gift ideas:
GENERAL APPAREL
- Clothing of any types, all sizes
- Shoes, laces & sports socks
- Hats, baseball caps, bandanas
- Pretty scarves, jewelry, hair accessories
HEALTH CARE
[Please check expiry date on pills or any health items.]
- Aspirin, Tylenol, ibuprofen, other pain relief products
- Vitamins, antacids, antibiotics, anti-diuretics, etc.
- Gravol, Imodium, Pepto Bismol & such
- Thermometers, Band Aids, Q-Tips & razors
- Lipstick, nail polish & clippers
- Deodorant & other toiletries
- Toothbrushes & toothpaste
- Soap, shampoo/conditioner
- Tampons, pads or other feminine products
- Condoms (for medical personnel to distribute)
- Used prescription or reading glasses
SCHOOL/HOME/WORK
- Notebooks & other paper products
- Pens, pencils, erasers, sharpeners
- Tape, glue, scissors, markers, etc.
- Coloring books, crayons, colored pencils
- Agendas, daybooks, calendars, etc.
SPORTS EQUIPMENT
- Ping-pong paddles, balls, nets
- Volleyballs, nets
- Soccer/tennis/baseballs, etc.
- Frisbees, skipping ropes, kites, etc.
MISC. & FUN ITEMS
- Spanish/English dictionaries to use & leave
- Solar yard lights (helpful indoors in power outages)
- Wind-up flashlights (batteries can be hard to get)
- Lighters (not matches) or igniters for gas stoves
- Nails, screws & simple tools
- Plastic containers or bags (Ziploc style)
- Insulated bags for food or beverages
- Umbrellas for rain or sun
- CDs for dancing & to leave at hotel
- Simple games for kids like jacks, puzzles
- Toys, dolls, stuffed animals
- Balloons, glow bracelets, etc.
- Gum & candy, especially chocolate
- Maple syrup – a nice Canadian touch!
------------------------------
I’ve created the list below by blending gift suggestion lists I’ve found on other sites and tossing in a few of my own ideas. For instance, I took some solar-powered yard lights on my last trip and they were a big hit. One friend told me that his family uses them in the house when the power goes out, which is a frequent occurrence in Cuba. The Club Amigo Marea del Portillo resort is equipped with solar hot-water tanks but, for some reason, the technology does not seem readily available for smaller applications or for home use.
Another idea I’ve added is to take spark igniters (usually used for lighting welding torches, available at hardware stores). On my first trip to Marea del Portillo, I asked one fellow what he thought a useful gift would be, for future reference. With little hesitation, he said “Lighters.” I replied that I wasn’t really keen to encourage smoking but he explained that many people cook with gas and, in the humid climate, matches just don’t cut it. Since I don't want to contribute to environmental waste in Cuba by taking disposable lighters, I take the longer-lasting flint igniters instead.
I’ve tried to organize my list in categories, roughly in order of importance. During my previous trips to Cuba, I’ve asked a variety of people for their opinion of what is best to take as gifts. Clothing needs predominate. Much of the clothing and footwear available in Cuba, I’ve been told, is either pricey or poorly made.
Drug store items are also right up there on most folks’ mental lists, although some people are too proud or shy to ask, I’ve learned. Even what Canadians would consider common, necessary medicine-cabinet supplies are out of financial reach for many Cubans. So, hit the dollar store before you pack!
Here’s my list of gift ideas:
GENERAL APPAREL
- Clothing of any types, all sizes
- Shoes, laces & sports socks
- Hats, baseball caps, bandanas
- Pretty scarves, jewelry, hair accessories
HEALTH CARE
[Please check expiry date on pills or any health items.]
- Aspirin, Tylenol, ibuprofen, other pain relief products
- Vitamins, antacids, antibiotics, anti-diuretics, etc.
- Gravol, Imodium, Pepto Bismol & such
- Thermometers, Band Aids, Q-Tips & razors
- Lipstick, nail polish & clippers
- Deodorant & other toiletries
- Toothbrushes & toothpaste
- Soap, shampoo/conditioner
- Tampons, pads or other feminine products
- Condoms (for medical personnel to distribute)
- Used prescription or reading glasses
SCHOOL/HOME/WORK
- Notebooks & other paper products
- Pens, pencils, erasers, sharpeners
- Tape, glue, scissors, markers, etc.
- Coloring books, crayons, colored pencils
- Agendas, daybooks, calendars, etc.
SPORTS EQUIPMENT
- Ping-pong paddles, balls, nets
- Volleyballs, nets
- Soccer/tennis/baseballs, etc.
- Frisbees, skipping ropes, kites, etc.
MISC. & FUN ITEMS
- Spanish/English dictionaries to use & leave
- Solar yard lights (helpful indoors in power outages)
- Wind-up flashlights (batteries can be hard to get)
- Lighters (not matches) or igniters for gas stoves
- Nails, screws & simple tools
- Plastic containers or bags (Ziploc style)
- Insulated bags for food or beverages
- Umbrellas for rain or sun
- CDs for dancing & to leave at hotel
- Simple games for kids like jacks, puzzles
- Toys, dolls, stuffed animals
- Balloons, glow bracelets, etc.
- Gum & candy, especially chocolate
- Maple syrup – a nice Canadian touch!
 |
| A creative use for an unused condom - shooting pebbles! |
------------------------------
INFORMATION UPDATE:
At the end of August (2010), I spoke with a friend in the Marea del Portillo area about current shortages. I asked specifically about deodorant, which had been in short supply when I visited in May. He said the situation has worsened - soap, shampoo and related toiletries are all hard to get now.
One of the country's largest suppliers of these goods has closed, he explained, so very little is available anywhere. In the Granma province, however, the problem is exacerbated because of the region's isolation.
Marea del Portillo is off the beaten track, which is one of the reasons why I like it. Unfortunately, this can make vital supplies difficult to get and life more challenging for the residents.
TIPS: When in doubt, be generous!
In my immediately preceding post (below), I touched on the importance of tipping when visiting Club Amigo Marea del Portillo – or any resort in Cuba, for that matter. For many people, tips are a vital part of their income because wages are incredibly low and, from what I’ve observed, tipping is not limited to the housekeeping and restaurant/bar staff. Within the resort, typically, tips baskets are located on counters as benign reminders.
My general rule is, if someone assists you in any way, especially if it is beyond what you would expect, give a tip and/or a gift to that person. Tip the wait staff at every meal, the bar tenders and the maid every day – you’ll likely get to know them by name. Tip the guy who lugs your luggage and the one who takes you sailing. Tip the people who provide you with transportation – the bus, taxi and horse carriage drivers, or the horseman, if you go for a trail ride. Tip the guy who comes to your room to fix the hot water (a common malady, unfortunately). I could go on but I’m sure you’re already thinking you may need to take out a bank loan, just to cover the tips.
Don’t worry! Tipping in Cuba is not like it is in Canada; a buck goes a long way. There is no expectation of a 10-15% tip, even if you are paying for a service (at all-inclusives, you don’t get those handy bills at the end of a meal to help you determine appropriate tips.) In Cuba, tourists use what are known as convertible pesos or CUCs, which are worth about the same as loonies. The peso follows the U.S. dollar and, since the Canadian dollar glides along in a similar fashion, a CUC peso is pretty close to being equal to $1 (CAD).
On my first trip to Marea del Portillo, I was advised by long-time guests to leave a peso on the pillow each morning for the maid. I sometimes leave small gifts too, such as notebooks and pens, hair accessories or dollar-store jewelry. In the resort restaurants, my dining partners and I usually take turns leaving a peso or so on the table – more, if the group is large or the service has been especially good at that meal. At the bars, I tend to tip sporadically, mostly because I don’t always have pockets or a purse and I stupidly forget to take money with me! But, since the tip jar is always there, I play catch-up and throw in extra change when I do think about it.
If you budget about $5/day for tips, and throw in a little extra for the little extras, you should be fine. I’ve never actually added up what I’ve tipped, so I guessing that $35-50 for the week will be plenty. It’s not a huge sum to a Canadian but, for the Cuban workers, it’s essential supplemental income.
When in doubt about what or when to tip, I would encourage you to err on the side of generosity. You can’t go wrong by being nice!
My general rule is, if someone assists you in any way, especially if it is beyond what you would expect, give a tip and/or a gift to that person. Tip the wait staff at every meal, the bar tenders and the maid every day – you’ll likely get to know them by name. Tip the guy who lugs your luggage and the one who takes you sailing. Tip the people who provide you with transportation – the bus, taxi and horse carriage drivers, or the horseman, if you go for a trail ride. Tip the guy who comes to your room to fix the hot water (a common malady, unfortunately). I could go on but I’m sure you’re already thinking you may need to take out a bank loan, just to cover the tips.
Don’t worry! Tipping in Cuba is not like it is in Canada; a buck goes a long way. There is no expectation of a 10-15% tip, even if you are paying for a service (at all-inclusives, you don’t get those handy bills at the end of a meal to help you determine appropriate tips.) In Cuba, tourists use what are known as convertible pesos or CUCs, which are worth about the same as loonies. The peso follows the U.S. dollar and, since the Canadian dollar glides along in a similar fashion, a CUC peso is pretty close to being equal to $1 (CAD).
On my first trip to Marea del Portillo, I was advised by long-time guests to leave a peso on the pillow each morning for the maid. I sometimes leave small gifts too, such as notebooks and pens, hair accessories or dollar-store jewelry. In the resort restaurants, my dining partners and I usually take turns leaving a peso or so on the table – more, if the group is large or the service has been especially good at that meal. At the bars, I tend to tip sporadically, mostly because I don’t always have pockets or a purse and I stupidly forget to take money with me! But, since the tip jar is always there, I play catch-up and throw in extra change when I do think about it.
If you budget about $5/day for tips, and throw in a little extra for the little extras, you should be fine. I’ve never actually added up what I’ve tipped, so I guessing that $35-50 for the week will be plenty. It’s not a huge sum to a Canadian but, for the Cuban workers, it’s essential supplemental income.
When in doubt about what or when to tip, I would encourage you to err on the side of generosity. You can’t go wrong by being nice!
Restructuring the Cuban economy
All of my previous posts were items I'd written for other forums, or just for my own fun. This is the first piece I've written specifically for this blog.
The Cuban economy has been fragile for decades. Trading sanctions against it by the United States and other countries that follow its lead have taken their toll, and the people of Cuba suffer. Raul Castro’s government recently embarked on a massive employment restructuring program and, since the state is the island’s largest employer, many people are being affected.
The intent, I’ve read, was to cut the fat from inflated payrolls and promote productivity. However, there are often few work options available beyond what the government has long provided. So, when people have their previously guaranteed hours of work and wages cut, they struggle to find something else, just to make ends meet. This is particularly a problem in impoverished rural regions like Granma.
I recently learned that one of my friends, who has worked at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo for much of his adult life, has had his work cut to “high-season” only (just the winter months, when the bulk of the tourists visit). This summer, he and his wife, who was also working at the resort, were assigned to work at a hospital instead. Although they’re on the resort staff, they are actually paid by the government and, as I understand it, must work where they’re told when not needed at their usual jobs.
This friend said his wages have been reduced to about 60%, which means he’ll now take home about $8/month Canadian (CAD). His wife would likely have been making less but, because she was a waitress, would have brought home more money from tips. They are looking into other endeavors to generate income for their small family.
As an aside, let me explain a little bit about the importance of tipping. Another friend, who has worked at the same resort for about 18 years, if I recall correctly, was off work for three months due to eye surgery. He said missing work made it very hard for his family financially – not due to decreased wages (approx. $12/month) but because of the lack of tips. I don’t know how much he might typically take home on an average day but he told me, the best tip he ever got, once, was $20. Tips are vital.
Some people who will now be underemployed are seeking new options. Private enterprise is not exactly encouraged in Cuba but, it seems, the government is becoming a little more lenient in this regard. It remains to be seen what will happen in the long run.
For more information on what is developing, I would encourage you to read the Havana Times. Here’s an article to start with: Cuba Gov. Offensive to Cut Inflated Payrolls.
------------------------------
The Cuban economy has been fragile for decades. Trading sanctions against it by the United States and other countries that follow its lead have taken their toll, and the people of Cuba suffer. Raul Castro’s government recently embarked on a massive employment restructuring program and, since the state is the island’s largest employer, many people are being affected.
The intent, I’ve read, was to cut the fat from inflated payrolls and promote productivity. However, there are often few work options available beyond what the government has long provided. So, when people have their previously guaranteed hours of work and wages cut, they struggle to find something else, just to make ends meet. This is particularly a problem in impoverished rural regions like Granma.
I recently learned that one of my friends, who has worked at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo for much of his adult life, has had his work cut to “high-season” only (just the winter months, when the bulk of the tourists visit). This summer, he and his wife, who was also working at the resort, were assigned to work at a hospital instead. Although they’re on the resort staff, they are actually paid by the government and, as I understand it, must work where they’re told when not needed at their usual jobs.
This friend said his wages have been reduced to about 60%, which means he’ll now take home about $8/month Canadian (CAD). His wife would likely have been making less but, because she was a waitress, would have brought home more money from tips. They are looking into other endeavors to generate income for their small family.
As an aside, let me explain a little bit about the importance of tipping. Another friend, who has worked at the same resort for about 18 years, if I recall correctly, was off work for three months due to eye surgery. He said missing work made it very hard for his family financially – not due to decreased wages (approx. $12/month) but because of the lack of tips. I don’t know how much he might typically take home on an average day but he told me, the best tip he ever got, once, was $20. Tips are vital.
Some people who will now be underemployed are seeking new options. Private enterprise is not exactly encouraged in Cuba but, it seems, the government is becoming a little more lenient in this regard. It remains to be seen what will happen in the long run.
For more information on what is developing, I would encourage you to read the Havana Times. Here’s an article to start with: Cuba Gov. Offensive to Cut Inflated Payrolls.
Saturday, August 21, 2010
POEM: She is Moonlight
I wrote this poem for one of my dear friends in Pilon. She and her family have taken up residence in my heart.
She is Moonlight
(For Yolaimis)
Her beauty’s moonlight through trees,
subtle as slow-burning coals.
When she smiles, the branches part
and the moon beams brilliantly.
Her eyes are Venus and Mars,
brighter than the winking stars.
They flash a different hue when
rightful anger drowns her heart.
And, they fill a room with warmth
reflecting her lovely soul.
She walks with grace and dances
beautifully, her husband says.
When she whispers through my mind,
she is moonlight.
- J.R.C.
July 25, 2010
------------------------------
She is Moonlight
(For Yolaimis)
Her beauty’s moonlight through trees,
subtle as slow-burning coals.
When she smiles, the branches part
and the moon beams brilliantly.
Her eyes are Venus and Mars,
brighter than the winking stars.
They flash a different hue when
rightful anger drowns her heart.
And, they fill a room with warmth
reflecting her lovely soul.
She walks with grace and dances
beautifully, her husband says.
When she whispers through my mind,
she is moonlight.
- J.R.C.
July 25, 2010
POEM: Worth a War
A fairly recent poem, once again playing with personification, and expressing my desire to do what I can to assist in improving life for my Cuban friends.
Worth a War
I want to fight for you,
my beautiful one,
my beloved place.
I want to start my own
revolution.
You stir my blood
and haunt my soul.
You make me cry.
You are worth a war –
one with no violence
this time.
I want to touch your face,
my beautiful one,
my beloved place.
I want to caress you
with my toes,
as I walk upon
your warm sand
and slip into your bay.
You make me smile.
You are worth a war –
of words and paper
this time.
I want to see you smile,
my beautiful one,
my beloved place.
I want to see the sun
wink above your
mountains,
and I want to know
you have everything
you need.
You are worth a war,
dear Cuba.
– J.R.C.
June 21, 2010
Friday, August 20, 2010
Getting to Know Her...
One of my long-time chums wrote a piece personifying his motorcycle in the opening paragraphs, so I thought I'd try it with a country.
Getting to Know Her...
I am getting to know Cuba. I find her very intriguing.
I met her for the first time in April of 2009 and, since then, we’ve had several encounters. She’s a cheap date. The booze flows freely when I’m with her and there are always many reasons to smile. She could get me into trouble, I suppose, but I really don’t fear that. There’s a certain innocent warmth about her that makes flirting seem safe and natural. Perhaps I trust her more than I should, but so be it.
Yes, I am talking about the island, the land, the country and her people. Cuba is a “she” to me, a woman of mystery. She has her secrets. She has her stories. And, she has her scars. I know an abused woman when I see one, even if she is too proud to admit it. I can see the latent pain, the nervous way of surreptitiously glancing around, in case someone’s watching. She shouldn’t have to live like that. No one should.
The people of Cuba should not have to live like that. Collectively, they seem to have such a wonderful spirit, despite the systemic abuse, despite the oppression, despite the ceaseless hardships – and I am incredibly intrigued. Naturally, not everyone is always happy but, after generations of struggling to survive, how can Cubans, in general, be so giving, forgiving and just plain joyous? They sing and dance and laugh as if tomorrow will be another perfect day in paradise. Is it merely a brave face? Is it a way to temporarily alleviate the suffering caused by routine shortages and irrational regulations?
During my most recent visit to Cuba, in April of this year, rice was in extremely short supply. Since this is a dietary staple in most Latin countries, a looming lack is quite worrisome; there is no substitute. There were rumors of rice riots in Havana, of someone being stabbed. I don’t know if there’s any truth to that story but I could see the concern about the situation in the faces of my friends. If you are used to eating something every day, twice a day, what would you do without that essential food? I cannot imagine the stress such a shortage will add to so many lives. Improvements are supposedly being made to the Cuban agricultural system but that is far from being an overnight solution.
Yet, through whatever problems arise, I know the people will still smile. Is it a facade? No, I don’t think so. I think their love of life, their beautiful spirit, is quite genuine. And, that’s the most attractive thing about Cuba. It’s her perfume, her magic elixir. That’s why I’m drawn to her, why I want to get to know her better. That’s why I will keep returning.
– JennyC
May 24, 2010
------------------------------
Getting to Know Her...
I am getting to know Cuba. I find her very intriguing.
I met her for the first time in April of 2009 and, since then, we’ve had several encounters. She’s a cheap date. The booze flows freely when I’m with her and there are always many reasons to smile. She could get me into trouble, I suppose, but I really don’t fear that. There’s a certain innocent warmth about her that makes flirting seem safe and natural. Perhaps I trust her more than I should, but so be it.
Yes, I am talking about the island, the land, the country and her people. Cuba is a “she” to me, a woman of mystery. She has her secrets. She has her stories. And, she has her scars. I know an abused woman when I see one, even if she is too proud to admit it. I can see the latent pain, the nervous way of surreptitiously glancing around, in case someone’s watching. She shouldn’t have to live like that. No one should.
The people of Cuba should not have to live like that. Collectively, they seem to have such a wonderful spirit, despite the systemic abuse, despite the oppression, despite the ceaseless hardships – and I am incredibly intrigued. Naturally, not everyone is always happy but, after generations of struggling to survive, how can Cubans, in general, be so giving, forgiving and just plain joyous? They sing and dance and laugh as if tomorrow will be another perfect day in paradise. Is it merely a brave face? Is it a way to temporarily alleviate the suffering caused by routine shortages and irrational regulations?
During my most recent visit to Cuba, in April of this year, rice was in extremely short supply. Since this is a dietary staple in most Latin countries, a looming lack is quite worrisome; there is no substitute. There were rumors of rice riots in Havana, of someone being stabbed. I don’t know if there’s any truth to that story but I could see the concern about the situation in the faces of my friends. If you are used to eating something every day, twice a day, what would you do without that essential food? I cannot imagine the stress such a shortage will add to so many lives. Improvements are supposedly being made to the Cuban agricultural system but that is far from being an overnight solution.
Yet, through whatever problems arise, I know the people will still smile. Is it a facade? No, I don’t think so. I think their love of life, their beautiful spirit, is quite genuine. And, that’s the most attractive thing about Cuba. It’s her perfume, her magic elixir. That’s why I’m drawn to her, why I want to get to know her better. That’s why I will keep returning.
– JennyC
May 24, 2010
POEM: Before the Stars
This poem is partly about a fabulously fun week I spent with friends at my favorite little resort, Club Amigo Marea del Portillo. While there, the region experienced a very mild earthquake. It was such a tender tremor that most people slept right through it - and missed a gorgeous sunrise!
Before the Stars
Before this all began,
I knew you well,
as you knew me.
We danced before the stars,
without the need for veils;
then we slept a hundred years.
But you dreamed me up
as I conjured you,
and we danced again.
After the band went home,
we danced some more,
surrounded by friends,
beneath happy stars.
I danced in bare feet,
dreamed with pure joy
and the earth shook gently.
Even after I went home,
I called to you: shalom,
come dance with me;
all will be well.
And you replied: shalom,
we will dance well,
my long-dear friend.
Here, on this crisp night,
the moon is a small smile.
There, in your warm land,
you see the same smile.
The stars are charmed,
and the dance goes on.
- J.R.C.
Feb. 15, 2010
-------------------------------
Before the Stars
Before this all began,
I knew you well,
as you knew me.
We danced before the stars,
without the need for veils;
then we slept a hundred years.
But you dreamed me up
as I conjured you,
and we danced again.
After the band went home,
we danced some more,
surrounded by friends,
beneath happy stars.
I danced in bare feet,
dreamed with pure joy
and the earth shook gently.
Even after I went home,
I called to you: shalom,
come dance with me;
all will be well.
And you replied: shalom,
we will dance well,
my long-dear friend.
Here, on this crisp night,
the moon is a small smile.
There, in your warm land,
you see the same smile.
The stars are charmed,
and the dance goes on.
- J.R.C.
Feb. 15, 2010
POEM: Letters to a Friend
This poem was inspired by frustration. After several months of sending letters to a friend in Pilon (a town next door to Marea del Portillo), without receiving a response, I began to understand the shortcomings of the Cuban postal system. We eventually established intermittent e-mail correspondence.
Letters to a Friend
There’s so much unsaid between the lines.
My thoughts tumble like stones
in the undertow of my sleepless mind
as I drift amid the blanket waves.
I want to give you each glistening stone,
plucked from this roiling surf, one by one,
and tell you what it means.
Much has been said in the letters I’ve sent.
More words on a page would say nothing new;
mere words on a page can’t fully convey
what my heart needs to say.
I want to see your eyes
as you hear my voice
when I tell you the truth
that lies between the lines;
and when I confirm
what you already know.
There’s so much unsaid.
– J.R.C.
Feb. 2, 2010
------------------------------
Letters to a Friend
There’s so much unsaid between the lines.
My thoughts tumble like stones
in the undertow of my sleepless mind
as I drift amid the blanket waves.
I want to give you each glistening stone,
plucked from this roiling surf, one by one,
and tell you what it means.
Much has been said in the letters I’ve sent.
More words on a page would say nothing new;
mere words on a page can’t fully convey
what my heart needs to say.
I want to see your eyes
as you hear my voice
when I tell you the truth
that lies between the lines;
and when I confirm
what you already know.
There’s so much unsaid.
– J.R.C.
Feb. 2, 2010
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Dear Mr. C, you should be proud!
Here is a letter I wrote in early 2010, with no intention to send. It was primarily a writing exercise for me, and a way of expressing my feelings about the people I've met in Cuba. I read it at Word Swap, a writers' group I host, and to a few other friends but, other than that, it's fresh fodder!
Dear Mr. Castro,
I am in love with your people. They are absolutely wonderful! You should be proud. During my travels throughout Europe and North America, I have never felt so sincerely and warmly welcomed anywhere. The Cuban people I’ve met all seem to be consistently kind and generous, to a fault; and this has caused my heart to simply explode with affection for them.
I have to admit, I have only visited a few times, always in the Granma region – that historic launching pad for change – but what I have read and heard from other travelers corroborates my view, compounds my admiration for the people of your beautiful country. Perhaps it is like saying I fell in love with a man by only seeing his foot but that is how I feel. (I can extrapolate quite adeptly!) Of course, I know that no one and no land can be perfect; that would be boring. Still, I feel safe in saying Cubans are incredible.
When I first saw the soaring Sierra Maestra mountains, I thought about you Castro brothers and your pal Che charging through the forest – you bright and handsome young men, with fire in your souls and desire for change in your hearts. You gave the country a new start, you bloody well did. And now? Change is needed once again. I know you are an old man and, I hope, have no interest in blood, but something must be done. Your people, your lovely, patient people, are ready for it. I can see it in their eyes, hear hints of it in their voices. They are hungry for change.
Having stated that so unequivocally, however, I can’t say what needs to be done. You would know better than anyone what change can and should occur, in order to improve life in Cuba. I am not a student of politics; my only interest is how people are affected by it. Mr. Castro, I think life is harder for your dear people than it needs to be. Loosen the yoke, please, and allow them be freer to pursue their dreams and to improve their lifestyles. You are the best one to do this, to create change in your country once more...before it is too late for you to do so. In other words, let them live, while you still do.
I suppose I am going out on a limb by writing this to you but I fear little when it comes to something I believe in with all my heart – I think you can understand that or, at least, you once did. I believe in the goodness of your people. I believe they should not have to struggle so hard to survive. I believe you still have the power to bring positive, peaceful change to Cuba, for the sake of your people. Please do what you can.
For what it’s worth, sir, I’ve never fallen in love with a people before, and I’ve never felt the need to write to a personal letter to a national leader. You are my first!
With much sincerity and a full heart,
JennyC
------------------------------
Dear Mr. Castro,
I am in love with your people. They are absolutely wonderful! You should be proud. During my travels throughout Europe and North America, I have never felt so sincerely and warmly welcomed anywhere. The Cuban people I’ve met all seem to be consistently kind and generous, to a fault; and this has caused my heart to simply explode with affection for them.
I have to admit, I have only visited a few times, always in the Granma region – that historic launching pad for change – but what I have read and heard from other travelers corroborates my view, compounds my admiration for the people of your beautiful country. Perhaps it is like saying I fell in love with a man by only seeing his foot but that is how I feel. (I can extrapolate quite adeptly!) Of course, I know that no one and no land can be perfect; that would be boring. Still, I feel safe in saying Cubans are incredible.
When I first saw the soaring Sierra Maestra mountains, I thought about you Castro brothers and your pal Che charging through the forest – you bright and handsome young men, with fire in your souls and desire for change in your hearts. You gave the country a new start, you bloody well did. And now? Change is needed once again. I know you are an old man and, I hope, have no interest in blood, but something must be done. Your people, your lovely, patient people, are ready for it. I can see it in their eyes, hear hints of it in their voices. They are hungry for change.
Having stated that so unequivocally, however, I can’t say what needs to be done. You would know better than anyone what change can and should occur, in order to improve life in Cuba. I am not a student of politics; my only interest is how people are affected by it. Mr. Castro, I think life is harder for your dear people than it needs to be. Loosen the yoke, please, and allow them be freer to pursue their dreams and to improve their lifestyles. You are the best one to do this, to create change in your country once more...before it is too late for you to do so. In other words, let them live, while you still do.
I suppose I am going out on a limb by writing this to you but I fear little when it comes to something I believe in with all my heart – I think you can understand that or, at least, you once did. I believe in the goodness of your people. I believe they should not have to struggle so hard to survive. I believe you still have the power to bring positive, peaceful change to Cuba, for the sake of your people. Please do what you can.
For what it’s worth, sir, I’ve never fallen in love with a people before, and I’ve never felt the need to write to a personal letter to a national leader. You are my first!
With much sincerity and a full heart,
JennyC
Beautiful! Marea del Portillo has me hooked
This is a TripAdvisor.com review I wrote in May 2010, after a very enjoyable two-week visit. When I returned home, my beloved mate said I looked the most relaxed he has seen me in a long time! So, he is fully supportive of me returning for such stays in the future...and the next trip is scheduled for October 2010.
Beautiful! Marea del Portillo has me hooked
Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, in the Granma region of Cuba, has tenderly hooked my heart. I ended up there by fluke, not knowing that others from my home community of Muskoka had already discovered this small gem and had been visiting annually for several years. I certainly understand why people return again and again, as I have begun doing.
The affordability of this modest Sunwing-operated resort was the initial attraction for me, as I’m sure it is for many budget-conscious travelers. Before going to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo (MdP) for the first time in 2009, I’d never been to Cuba, or to an all-inclusive resort, and I was a bit apprehensive. But, the price was right and the reviews I read reassured me that this was a safe place and not a big party zone – I didn’t want to spend my vacation dodging drunks. I wanted to indulge in a variety of outdoor activities, and to soak up some saltwater and sun. MdP fulfilled my requirements and exceeded my expectations. I am most decidedly hooked.
Last year (2009), I visited in April with one amiga, then in October with four, for only a week each time. I’ve just returned from my third visit, this time on my own for two glorious weeks, April 22-May 6, but it was not enough. I am in no danger of tiring of this laid-back resort and the surrounding community. I’m already planning my next two-week cultural immersion and, this time, I want to take a posse of pals and show them why this humble little place is so special to me.
I think it’s sometimes easier to show people than to tell them why a place is special but I’ll try to explain. Perhaps I should start with the negatives, as in what MdP is NOT. It’s not a party-down dude, drink ‘til you drop kind of resort but, if you want, you can do that. It’s not a place for pull-out-all-the-stops pampering but you can get your nails done and have a nice, relaxing massage. It’s not perfect but, to me, it’s perfectly wonderful.
Why is it so wonderful? Let’s start with the setting. The scenic beauty of the area is second to none. The historic and majestic Sierra Maestra mountains tower above the eastern lip of the horseshoe bay, stalling the sun’s rise. One of my favorite morning activities was to stroll the few meters from my cabana to the beach – out the back door, essentially – and to float in the gently undulating ocean as I watched the sun come up. The beach in front of the hotel complex is well tended, cleaned each and every morning, and monitored most of the day by a core of fit-looking lifeguards. The bay itself is generally quite safe for swimming and the shoreline is interesting to hike along and explore.
More adventurous pursuits than hiking are also possible, such as kayaking in the mangrove at the far end of the bay. Elier, my favorite sail master (he and several others provide very fun rides on the resort’s catamarans), said I should look for manatees, or sea cows, grazing in the mangrove...maybe I’ll see one on my next visit. I would highly recommend going out on a catamaran on a windy day, if you want a rippin’ ride and don’t mind getting splashed. When it’s not so windy, you can have still have a nice time sailing, or you may want to take a kayak out and tour about.
I should also mention there are numerous other activities available, from horseback riding to poolside bingo, should you choose to participate. And, every evening, there’s an enjoyable variety show, featuring a cadre of engaging entertainers and skilled local dancers and singers, such as Robertico, a perennial crowd pleaser. Entertainment manager Ricardo Buzzy consistently puts together a well-rounded professional show, although that can be a challenge due to equipment limitations. Most nights, the resort’s top-notch house band, Integracion Sonora, delights music aficionados and encourages dancing. (For a sample of their performances, a Google search of the band’s name, or that of their phenomenal lead guitarist, Gerardo Caldosa, will lead you to some YouTube clips.)
Everything I’ve written so far, however, is really just about the physical reasons why this resort a winner in my books. All those reasons would not be enough to hook my heart. The vital ingredient that makes Marea del Portillo a truly exceptional place, in my opinion, is the people. The resort staff works extremely hard to make sure all guests are well served and happy. If you address a complaint to Elena de Moya, Sunwing’s on-site representative, she will do what she can to rectify the perceived problem and will follow up with the complainant later.
Last fall, for instance, the buffet was suffering – many people say “don’t go to Cuba for the food,” which is unfair but, truly, the food quality was slipping badly at that time. Numerous people voiced concern to Elena and, in short order, there was noticeable improvement. This year, I’m pleased to report, the food was the best ever in my trio of visits. There was something for every palate, plenty of options at each meal, and visible attention paid to presentation. And, I want to point out, it’s not easy to meet North American culinary expectations in an isolated, impoverished rural region where food is not always readily accessible. Compared to what is available for the people living in the area, we tourists are fed like kings.
Regarding the food, my only suggestion to the resort management would be that more traditional Cuban food be offered on a daily basis, such as dishes made with goat meat. That’s what the locals eat, so why can’t it be a staple on the buffet? There is no shortage of goats!
Getting to know the local people has been the most rewarding and important part of my whole Marea del Portillo experience; they have touched my soul. The resort team is reliably helpful and friendly but, beyond the resort’s fenceless boundaries, the people are typically the same – warm, welcoming and wonderful. Even though you are an alien on their home turf, they make you feel comfortable and accepted with a simple smile and nod or by offering you some fresh fruit or a beverage. If you make an effort to have a conversation and take the time to get acquainted, you will likely see sincere curiosity sparkling in your new friend’s eyes.
Social interactions of all types sparkle in Cuba and, certainly, there’s no lack of flirtatious behavior. However, in my experience, Cuban men are rarely pushy or overbearing. They are generally much more respectful than many North American men. You will know you’re being admired but you don’t need to worry about being harmed, unless you’re allergic to the flower someone hands you as you walk by. For me, that’s just added entertainment.
One evening in October, when my friend Maykel (one of the entertainers) was gregariously flirting with a circle of amigas clustered around a pod of pushed-together tables by the pool, he commented, “Cuban men think all women are beautiful.” Of course, we all smiled, which I assumed was the goal. Now, after my third visit, I see more truth in the line than I originally did. During my recent, longer sojourn, I was able to wade more deeply into the culture and do more people watching. I observed that women of all ages, sizes and nationalities are warmly greeted and flirted with in a polite, sweet style that inspires smiles. It’s harmless fun. It’s good for the ego.
When one is gently encouraged to feel beautiful, it’s easy to comply. It’s easy to smile. That’s not the primary reason I will keep returning to this warm land, and to the special place known as Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, but it’s a nice perk. The resort staff encourages guests to view it as their “second home,” and most returnees seem to do just that – women, men and children. I feel very much at home there, completely relaxed and happy, and it’s obvious that many other individuals and families feel the same; the return rate is phenomenal. Some Canadians I met have been going there for decades, often several times a year.
When I’m there, I can’t stop smiling. When I’m there, I feel beautiful. I think you will too. When you go, say hello to everyone for me – including the goats!
Still smiling,
JennyC
------------------------------
Beautiful! Marea del Portillo has me hooked
Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, in the Granma region of Cuba, has tenderly hooked my heart. I ended up there by fluke, not knowing that others from my home community of Muskoka had already discovered this small gem and had been visiting annually for several years. I certainly understand why people return again and again, as I have begun doing.
The affordability of this modest Sunwing-operated resort was the initial attraction for me, as I’m sure it is for many budget-conscious travelers. Before going to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo (MdP) for the first time in 2009, I’d never been to Cuba, or to an all-inclusive resort, and I was a bit apprehensive. But, the price was right and the reviews I read reassured me that this was a safe place and not a big party zone – I didn’t want to spend my vacation dodging drunks. I wanted to indulge in a variety of outdoor activities, and to soak up some saltwater and sun. MdP fulfilled my requirements and exceeded my expectations. I am most decidedly hooked.
Last year (2009), I visited in April with one amiga, then in October with four, for only a week each time. I’ve just returned from my third visit, this time on my own for two glorious weeks, April 22-May 6, but it was not enough. I am in no danger of tiring of this laid-back resort and the surrounding community. I’m already planning my next two-week cultural immersion and, this time, I want to take a posse of pals and show them why this humble little place is so special to me.
I think it’s sometimes easier to show people than to tell them why a place is special but I’ll try to explain. Perhaps I should start with the negatives, as in what MdP is NOT. It’s not a party-down dude, drink ‘til you drop kind of resort but, if you want, you can do that. It’s not a place for pull-out-all-the-stops pampering but you can get your nails done and have a nice, relaxing massage. It’s not perfect but, to me, it’s perfectly wonderful.
Why is it so wonderful? Let’s start with the setting. The scenic beauty of the area is second to none. The historic and majestic Sierra Maestra mountains tower above the eastern lip of the horseshoe bay, stalling the sun’s rise. One of my favorite morning activities was to stroll the few meters from my cabana to the beach – out the back door, essentially – and to float in the gently undulating ocean as I watched the sun come up. The beach in front of the hotel complex is well tended, cleaned each and every morning, and monitored most of the day by a core of fit-looking lifeguards. The bay itself is generally quite safe for swimming and the shoreline is interesting to hike along and explore.
More adventurous pursuits than hiking are also possible, such as kayaking in the mangrove at the far end of the bay. Elier, my favorite sail master (he and several others provide very fun rides on the resort’s catamarans), said I should look for manatees, or sea cows, grazing in the mangrove...maybe I’ll see one on my next visit. I would highly recommend going out on a catamaran on a windy day, if you want a rippin’ ride and don’t mind getting splashed. When it’s not so windy, you can have still have a nice time sailing, or you may want to take a kayak out and tour about.
I should also mention there are numerous other activities available, from horseback riding to poolside bingo, should you choose to participate. And, every evening, there’s an enjoyable variety show, featuring a cadre of engaging entertainers and skilled local dancers and singers, such as Robertico, a perennial crowd pleaser. Entertainment manager Ricardo Buzzy consistently puts together a well-rounded professional show, although that can be a challenge due to equipment limitations. Most nights, the resort’s top-notch house band, Integracion Sonora, delights music aficionados and encourages dancing. (For a sample of their performances, a Google search of the band’s name, or that of their phenomenal lead guitarist, Gerardo Caldosa, will lead you to some YouTube clips.)
Everything I’ve written so far, however, is really just about the physical reasons why this resort a winner in my books. All those reasons would not be enough to hook my heart. The vital ingredient that makes Marea del Portillo a truly exceptional place, in my opinion, is the people. The resort staff works extremely hard to make sure all guests are well served and happy. If you address a complaint to Elena de Moya, Sunwing’s on-site representative, she will do what she can to rectify the perceived problem and will follow up with the complainant later.
Last fall, for instance, the buffet was suffering – many people say “don’t go to Cuba for the food,” which is unfair but, truly, the food quality was slipping badly at that time. Numerous people voiced concern to Elena and, in short order, there was noticeable improvement. This year, I’m pleased to report, the food was the best ever in my trio of visits. There was something for every palate, plenty of options at each meal, and visible attention paid to presentation. And, I want to point out, it’s not easy to meet North American culinary expectations in an isolated, impoverished rural region where food is not always readily accessible. Compared to what is available for the people living in the area, we tourists are fed like kings.
Regarding the food, my only suggestion to the resort management would be that more traditional Cuban food be offered on a daily basis, such as dishes made with goat meat. That’s what the locals eat, so why can’t it be a staple on the buffet? There is no shortage of goats!
Getting to know the local people has been the most rewarding and important part of my whole Marea del Portillo experience; they have touched my soul. The resort team is reliably helpful and friendly but, beyond the resort’s fenceless boundaries, the people are typically the same – warm, welcoming and wonderful. Even though you are an alien on their home turf, they make you feel comfortable and accepted with a simple smile and nod or by offering you some fresh fruit or a beverage. If you make an effort to have a conversation and take the time to get acquainted, you will likely see sincere curiosity sparkling in your new friend’s eyes.
Social interactions of all types sparkle in Cuba and, certainly, there’s no lack of flirtatious behavior. However, in my experience, Cuban men are rarely pushy or overbearing. They are generally much more respectful than many North American men. You will know you’re being admired but you don’t need to worry about being harmed, unless you’re allergic to the flower someone hands you as you walk by. For me, that’s just added entertainment.
One evening in October, when my friend Maykel (one of the entertainers) was gregariously flirting with a circle of amigas clustered around a pod of pushed-together tables by the pool, he commented, “Cuban men think all women are beautiful.” Of course, we all smiled, which I assumed was the goal. Now, after my third visit, I see more truth in the line than I originally did. During my recent, longer sojourn, I was able to wade more deeply into the culture and do more people watching. I observed that women of all ages, sizes and nationalities are warmly greeted and flirted with in a polite, sweet style that inspires smiles. It’s harmless fun. It’s good for the ego.
When one is gently encouraged to feel beautiful, it’s easy to comply. It’s easy to smile. That’s not the primary reason I will keep returning to this warm land, and to the special place known as Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, but it’s a nice perk. The resort staff encourages guests to view it as their “second home,” and most returnees seem to do just that – women, men and children. I feel very much at home there, completely relaxed and happy, and it’s obvious that many other individuals and families feel the same; the return rate is phenomenal. Some Canadians I met have been going there for decades, often several times a year.
When I’m there, I can’t stop smiling. When I’m there, I feel beautiful. I think you will too. When you go, say hello to everyone for me – including the goats!
Still smiling,
JennyC
We all loved it - I'd go back in a heartbeat!
The following is a review I wrote and posted on TripAdvisor.com in October 2009, after spending a wonderful week with some of my favorite friends.
We all loved it - I'd go back in a heartbeat!
I visited Marea del Portillo for the first time in April 2009, with one gal-pal, and we both had a very good time. Because of my enjoyable experience, three different girlfriends decided to join me for a trip in late October 2009. (My arm was easily twisted to go again!)
My personal assessment, combined with the photos I took on my first trip, helped my friends to feel confident about going to this Club Amigo resort, despite some negative reviews (many of which contain outdated information). Two of my friends have significant physical challenges, so knowing that they would feel safe and comfortable was key. They had a wonderful time, as we all did!
We particularly appreciated the gracious, courteous staff who were ready to assist at any time, even late at night when one friend was locked out of her room. They quite literally leaped to our aid - one brave fellow leaped from my upper cabana balcony to my friend's, when we noticed that her balcony door was ajar. This gave her access to her cabana room without waiting for someone to arrive with a key.
It was very gallant of him but not recommended to anyone except Spiderman! Even the maid, who was also trying to assist, shook her head at him for attempting such a risky feat - thankfully, he didn't slip. If you look at any photos of the cabanas, you'll see that they are staggered and there is quite a daunting distance from one railing top to the next.
You will note that I've rated the resort "Excellent" in all categories. That doesn't mean everything was absolutely perfect - what place ever is? - but it was perfectly wonderful. My review was bumped into "Excellent" by the people, both the resort staff and the local villagers we encountered during our stay. I have never felt so warmly welcomed in any place I've visited, internationally or at home in Canada.
Since I live in Muskoka, I've seen tourism from both sides of the cloud and I can tell you it's not easy to maintain the genuine warmth and helpfulness that the people of Marea del Portillo consistently demonstrated. With respect to the resort, I would guess that attitude is due to the management, at least in part.
Elena, the unflaggingly patient Sunwing on-site representative, works hard to keep guests smiling, and seems to do quite well in accomplishing this. She repeatedly encourages visitors to tell her if there is any problem, no matter how small, and she will do whatever she can to resolve it. She means it.
During the October trip, many people felt the buffet was looking a bit tired, even in the first part of the week. Some long-time repeat customers said the food service seemed to have taken a nose-dive, and they told Elena. She spoke to the management and the kitchen staff promptly pulled up their socks, so to speak. There was a marked improvement in the buffet offerings for the remainder of the week.
The "let's fix it" attitude at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo is part of what makes it a truly excellent place to stay. Combine that with the scenic beauty of the setting, the relaxed, laid-back style of the resort itself and the interesting, quirky "wildlife" (random goats, pigs and horses sometimes stroll about the grounds) and I think it's a hands-down winner.
It's not a five-star resort but, to me, it's better. If you enjoy making personal contact with people - local residents as well as other tourists - this is a great place to do so. And, you can't beat the magnificent scenery - the majestic Sierra Maestra mountains flank a picturesque horseshoe bay with gently sloping beaches and palms waving "Hola!"
I will definitely return, with the same and/or other friends, hopefully for longer than one too-short week.
JennyC
------------------------------
We all loved it - I'd go back in a heartbeat!
I visited Marea del Portillo for the first time in April 2009, with one gal-pal, and we both had a very good time. Because of my enjoyable experience, three different girlfriends decided to join me for a trip in late October 2009. (My arm was easily twisted to go again!)
My personal assessment, combined with the photos I took on my first trip, helped my friends to feel confident about going to this Club Amigo resort, despite some negative reviews (many of which contain outdated information). Two of my friends have significant physical challenges, so knowing that they would feel safe and comfortable was key. They had a wonderful time, as we all did!
We particularly appreciated the gracious, courteous staff who were ready to assist at any time, even late at night when one friend was locked out of her room. They quite literally leaped to our aid - one brave fellow leaped from my upper cabana balcony to my friend's, when we noticed that her balcony door was ajar. This gave her access to her cabana room without waiting for someone to arrive with a key.
It was very gallant of him but not recommended to anyone except Spiderman! Even the maid, who was also trying to assist, shook her head at him for attempting such a risky feat - thankfully, he didn't slip. If you look at any photos of the cabanas, you'll see that they are staggered and there is quite a daunting distance from one railing top to the next.
You will note that I've rated the resort "Excellent" in all categories. That doesn't mean everything was absolutely perfect - what place ever is? - but it was perfectly wonderful. My review was bumped into "Excellent" by the people, both the resort staff and the local villagers we encountered during our stay. I have never felt so warmly welcomed in any place I've visited, internationally or at home in Canada.
Since I live in Muskoka, I've seen tourism from both sides of the cloud and I can tell you it's not easy to maintain the genuine warmth and helpfulness that the people of Marea del Portillo consistently demonstrated. With respect to the resort, I would guess that attitude is due to the management, at least in part.
Elena, the unflaggingly patient Sunwing on-site representative, works hard to keep guests smiling, and seems to do quite well in accomplishing this. She repeatedly encourages visitors to tell her if there is any problem, no matter how small, and she will do whatever she can to resolve it. She means it.
During the October trip, many people felt the buffet was looking a bit tired, even in the first part of the week. Some long-time repeat customers said the food service seemed to have taken a nose-dive, and they told Elena. She spoke to the management and the kitchen staff promptly pulled up their socks, so to speak. There was a marked improvement in the buffet offerings for the remainder of the week.
The "let's fix it" attitude at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo is part of what makes it a truly excellent place to stay. Combine that with the scenic beauty of the setting, the relaxed, laid-back style of the resort itself and the interesting, quirky "wildlife" (random goats, pigs and horses sometimes stroll about the grounds) and I think it's a hands-down winner.
It's not a five-star resort but, to me, it's better. If you enjoy making personal contact with people - local residents as well as other tourists - this is a great place to do so. And, you can't beat the magnificent scenery - the majestic Sierra Maestra mountains flank a picturesque horseshoe bay with gently sloping beaches and palms waving "Hola!"
I will definitely return, with the same and/or other friends, hopefully for longer than one too-short week.
JennyC
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