This blog's title means "Cuban-hearted woman" (very loosely translated!). I settled on this name because it had a nice ring to my unschooled ear and, more importantly, because I think the Cuban people seem to have so much
heart, and they're in my heart for that reason. In general, the people I've met in Cuba are quite consistently open-hearted and big-hearted in the way they relate to each other or to visitors in their beautiful land. A piece of my heart now resides in Cuba, with the warm, wonderful friends I've made there. This blog is not intended to be a guide to Cuba, just a forum for my eclectic bits of writing – poetry, opinion pieces and information gleaned from my personal experience and reading.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Money, money, money...pennies to pesos

I am trying to become more current on currency. In Cuba, the complicating factor is that there are two currencies and they're both called pesos! One, however, is worth significantly more - the one intended for visitors to the country.

The currency tourists primarily use is known as the convertible peso or CUC. The acronym is derived from CU for Cuba and C for convertible, like CAD is for Canadian dollars. The just plain Cuban peso (CUP) is actually the national currency. It's required for purchases from government-run stores, public transportation and other necessities of Cuban life. For residents, both types are essential.

The interesting thing to me is that, although the exchange rate for foreign currency to either the CUC or CUP fluctuates daily - just as the CAD to USD conversions do - the in-country rate for CUC to CUP has not changed since 2005. It continues to be 1 CUC = 24 CUP. When I recently checked the exchange rate (late Aug. 2010), $1 CAD = .88 CUC or .04 CUP.

Someone with a better grasp of math might be able to tell you if there is any financial benefit to tipping in CAD rather than CUC but I suspect not, unless you're giving big bills. I'd hazard a guess that it might be more of a hastle for the tippee if the tip is in Loonies or Twoonies because it may necessitate a trip to a bank; CUCs can be spent immediately.

When visiting Marea del Portillo, my recommendation is that you exchange money at the airport - most or all of what you anticipate spending during your stay. There are not a lot of banks in this rural region, especially not within walking distance of the resort. You can generally exchange money at the resort but the airport exchange booth's rate is ever so slightly better.

More importantly, you should be prepared for tipping before you even set foot in the resort lobby! And, you may want to buy a cold drink at the airport for the hour-and-a-quarter bus ride to the resort. Can you say, "Una cerveza por favor?"

A further monetary precaution pertains to credit cards. You can (if you must) exchange U.S. dollars for CUCs while in Cuba, athough it's potentially problematic and there's a significantly higher fee. But, do NOT plan to use a credit card that is affiliated with a U.S. bank. American Express? Leave home without it! Fortunately for Canucks, Canada has a wealth of home-grown banks; take credit cards issued by CIBC, TD, BMO or any non-American financial institution.

My information about money matters comes from several sources and, to the best of my ability, is up-to-date and accurate. Here are some relevant excerpts gleaned from the Havana Times website:

"Money can be changed in Cuba at either of two official institutions: Banks and Casas de Cambio (CADECA or exchange booths)...whether you are exchanging foreign currency for the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC or peso convertible) or CUCs for Cuban Pesos (CUP, moneda nacional or just plain peso)...While the exchange rates for foreign currencies to CUCs change daily, since December 2005 the exchange rate for the CUC to CUP has remained steady at 1 CUC to 24 CUP or pesos...

"You will need CUCs at hotels, many restaurants, for state-operated taxis, domestic travel (plane or bus), entries to museums and other cultural venues, and the so-called “dollar shops,” whereas CUPs or pesos are necessary for public transportation (guaguas or buses), agromercados, at some pesos-only restaurants and bookstores, movies, etc...."

"You can withdraw CUCs against your credit card – as long as the credit card is not issued by a US or US-affiliated bank...foreign currencies, however, including US dollars, are still accepted within the country as currencies of exchange for CUCs (Cuban Convertible Pesos) at banks and CADECA (Casas de Cambio or official exchange booths)...

"[However] the Central Bank of Cuba established an 8% exchange tariff on all currencies when they are exchanged for CUCs, with the exception of the US dollar which has an additional 10% tax that is applied before the 8% exchange rate is calculated, whether the US dollars are held by foreign visitors or nationals. In practical terms, this means an almost 20% devaluation of the US dollar against the CUC."

ONE FINAL NOTE: Don't forget to set aside $25 CUC, if you want to go home! That's the requisite departure tax that is paid at the airport as you exit the country. I don't know what would happen if someone didn't have this fee but I'm sure it would not be a pleasant way to end a nice sojourn in Cuba.

Thursday, August 26, 2010

I chose to walk through an opened door

During the dreary winter of 2008-2009, I was desperate for a beach. I'd been to Costa Rica several times and was keen to go again but the gods of travel were not smiling on such an adventure. The cost of flights was soaring but my beach-sand budget was not. So, I sought a new sun spot.

More by fluke than plan, I ended up on a warm brown beach in Cuba with one of my dearest chums, Martine. We opted for Club Amigo Marea del Portillo mainly because it was cheap; being independent-minded women, we were hesitant to book into an all-inclusive resort. The concept was not our usual style or mode of travel but we talked ourselves into it because the place sounded very laid back and low key. It offered more outdoorsy options than a city-based resort would have and, best of all, it was very affordable. For less than the price of a seat on a plane to Costa Rica, we could spend a week by the ocean in Cuba and everything would be covered - flight, accommodation and the requisites to eat, drink and be merry.

At the end of the week, we both had sore cheeks from smiling so much. We laughed ourselves silly, hiked, swam, danced and had an absolutely fabulous time. And, we discovered, many Canadians considered this humble resort their second home; they returned time and again for happy holidays, warmly welcomed by friends on staff and in the surrounding community. I was not quite hooked yet but I was certainly pleased with our accidental choice of resorts.

That first trip was in April of 2009. By the following fall, I was booked for a second trip to the same place but, once again, it hadn't been at the top of my travel list. Another of my dearest friends, Penny, had finally been talked into going on a husband-free holiday - with me and her sister Laurie. We'd hoped to go to a resort Laurie liked in Costa Rica, in an area I was familiar with. However, prices to that part of the earth were still sky high, so I suggested Cuba. Since I'd had such a great time at Marea del Portillo and had a wealth of photos to show them what the resort was like, I could reassure them they would be quite comfortable there.

By this time, yet another of my dearest friends had signed on - Wendy, who is generally game to go to a beach just about anytime, anywhere. She didn't meet Penny and Laurie until our flight to Cuba but I assured them that all would be well and we would get along fine. It was and we did.

On this trip, Wendy and I got to know Maykel, whom I'd met on my previous visit. We were intrigued by his interest in social justice issues and impressed with his intellect. In one conversation, he mentioned reading Shakespeare and commented that the English was a bit different. Indeed! Wendy and I both had the feeling that he was at some sort of crossroads in his life, and we agreed to do what we could to support and empower him to choose a good path.

I began thinking of ways to work with him to improve the lives of the people of that impoverished rural region. Ideas about possible projects were rambling through my mind in the wee hours of one morning when, all of a sudden, there was a boom, followed by a rumble. Then the bed shook as if it was possessed by a "Magic Fingers" massage device on steroids. Seconds passed. I was now wide awake, so I went out on my balcony to see what I could see.

I saw Wendy on her balcony. (We had second-floor cabana rooms beside each other.) We didn't see a mushroom cloud or any type of smoke, so we concluded there had not been an explosion. It must have been an earthquake, we decided, but wondered if there would be a subsequent tsunami. Being naturally curious, we headed down to the beach to see what was going on. We were fairly certain there would be no tsunami since none of the local animals seemed at all alarmed; they were not heading for high ground, just going about their normal morning routines.

A resident hog hiked toward home, checking the odd garbage can on her way. A frisky filly frolicked. Goats, birds and lizards were doing their usual things. The resort staff was stirring. Wendy and I strolled along the beach and admired the rising sun. We got some great photos - our reward for getting up at 5 a.m.! We also had a good talk; I told her what I'd been thinking about when the earth shook.

I'm not usually inclined to look for "signs" but I couldn't shake the feeling that this was sort of a cosmic confirmation of being on the right track. I felt like my "ah ha" moment - my idea about how I could work with Maykel to benefit the community - had been punctuated by an exclamation mark from the universe.

A door seemed to have been opened and I chose to walk through it. Metaphorically, I'm hiking around in a whole new environment, and I'm lovin' it! I'm not planning on saving the world but I hope to help a few people. That's the impetus behind the projects I've launched and why I've set up this blog.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

I'm learning Spanish from Alex Cuba!

No, he's not teaching me personally, I must reluctantly admit, but I am learning some very nice words and phrases from him, nonetheless.

This excellent Cuban-Canadian musician has cleverly printed his song lyrics in both Spanish and English on his CDs. So, I read along – my tongue still gets tangled when I try to sing along, although I can manage the odd melodic word or two.

I have to say, Alexis Puentes (Alex Cuba is his stage name) is one romantic guy! I enjoy his music but, in truth, I'm not sure if I'll ever use phrases like "amor infinito" in casual conversation. Still, it's fun to practice tuneful pronunciation.

I'll add a link to his website, so you can check him out...I mean, check his music out. Young as he looks, he's the father of three and, at last report, was living happily ever after in Smithers, B.C., with the woman who inspired him to immigrate and, undoubtedly, inspired many of his beautiful love songs.

I think you'll like his music, and the beat's bound to get your feet moving. Now, if I could only find someone to teach me to dance salsa!

GIFTS: What’s most appreciated?

Canadians, in general, are genuinely generous people. One of the first questions many people planning trips to Cuba ask is “What can we take as gifts?” Canadian travelers truly want to know what’s most needed or wanted by the Cuban people.

I’ve created the list below by blending gift suggestion lists I’ve found on other sites and tossing in a few of my own ideas. For instance, I took some solar-powered yard lights on my last trip and they were a big hit. One friend told me that his family uses them in the house when the power goes out, which is a frequent occurrence in Cuba. The Club Amigo Marea del Portillo resort is equipped with solar hot-water tanks but, for some reason, the technology does not seem readily available for smaller applications or for home use.

Another idea I’ve added is to take spark igniters (usually used for lighting welding torches, available at hardware stores). On my first trip to Marea del Portillo, I asked one fellow what he thought a useful gift would be, for future reference. With little hesitation, he said “Lighters.” I replied that I wasn’t really keen to encourage smoking but he explained that many people cook with gas and, in the humid climate, matches just don’t cut it. Since I don't want to contribute to environmental waste in Cuba by taking disposable lighters, I take the longer-lasting flint igniters instead.

I’ve tried to organize my list in categories, roughly in order of importance. During my previous trips to Cuba, I’ve asked a variety of people for their opinion of what is best to take as gifts. Clothing needs predominate. Much of the clothing and footwear available in Cuba, I’ve been told, is either pricey or poorly made.

Drug store items are also right up there on most folks’ mental lists, although some people are too proud or shy to ask, I’ve learned. Even what Canadians would consider common, necessary medicine-cabinet supplies are out of financial reach for many Cubans. So, hit the dollar store before you pack!

Here’s my list of gift ideas:

GENERAL APPAREL
- Clothing of any types, all sizes
- Shoes, laces & sports socks
- Hats, baseball caps, bandanas
- Pretty scarves, jewelry, hair accessories

HEALTH CARE
[Please check expiry date on pills or any health items.]
- Aspirin, Tylenol, ibuprofen, other pain relief products
- Vitamins, antacids, antibiotics, anti-diuretics, etc.
- Gravol, Imodium, Pepto Bismol & such
- Thermometers, Band Aids, Q-Tips & razors
- Lipstick, nail polish & clippers
- Deodorant & other toiletries
- Toothbrushes & toothpaste
- Soap, shampoo/conditioner
- Tampons, pads or other feminine products
- Condoms (for medical personnel to distribute)
- Used prescription or reading glasses

SCHOOL/HOME/WORK
- Notebooks & other paper products
- Pens, pencils, erasers, sharpeners
- Tape, glue, scissors, markers, etc.
- Coloring books, crayons, colored pencils
- Agendas, daybooks, calendars, etc.

SPORTS EQUIPMENT
- Ping-pong paddles, balls, nets
- Volleyballs, nets
- Soccer/tennis/baseballs, etc.
- Frisbees, skipping ropes, kites, etc.

MISC. & FUN ITEMS
- Spanish/English dictionaries to use & leave
- Solar yard lights (helpful indoors in power outages)
- Wind-up flashlights (batteries can be hard to get)
- Lighters (not matches) or igniters for gas stoves
- Nails, screws & simple tools
- Plastic containers or bags (Ziploc style)
- Insulated bags for food or beverages
- Umbrellas for rain or sun
- CDs for dancing & to leave at hotel
- Simple games for kids like jacks, puzzles
- Toys, dolls, stuffed animals
- Balloons, glow bracelets, etc.
- Gum & candy, especially chocolate
- Maple syrup – a nice Canadian touch!

A creative use for an unused condom - shooting pebbles!

























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INFORMATION UPDATE:

At the end of August (2010), I spoke with a friend in the Marea del Portillo area about current shortages. I asked specifically about deodorant, which had been in short supply when I visited in May. He said the situation has worsened - soap, shampoo and related toiletries are all hard to get now.

One of the country's largest suppliers of these goods has closed, he explained, so very little is available anywhere. In the Granma province, however, the problem is exacerbated because of the region's isolation.

Marea del Portillo is off the beaten track, which is one of the reasons why I like it. Unfortunately, this can make vital supplies difficult to get and life more challenging for the residents.