Fresh from my fifth visit, I’m eager to begin work

I’m back in cool Canada, fresh from the warmth of my fifth visit to Marea del Portillo, Cuba. I am tired but energized. I feel incredibly blessed and enriched by my diverse experiences there.

I now see much more clearly what can be done to support and empower the people there, what should be done and what I can do. I’m eager to begin. I have been doing some things to help families in this rather isolated rural region, and I will be doing more.

The individuals I have come to know and trust are teaching me about how things work in Cuba, showing me what is most needed in the community surrounding Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, a minor resort operated by Sunwing in the Granma province, at the southern foot of the island. It’s just about as far away from the hustle of Havana as one can be in Cuba, which has both pros and cons.

The largest con is that the location means this area is lower on the food chain when it comes to supplies; it’s often harder to get the most basic necessities like deodorant here. Sometimes it’s even difficult to get rice, an absolutely essential part of every Cuban diet. Somehow, they always cope, and continue to smile.

What I’ve been learning is that even the smallest things can make a big difference. The peso that is left on the pillow for the chambermaid each morning adds up. To the Canadian leaving the tip, that’s seven bucks for an entire week of service. It’s next to nothing. It’s less than a bottle of semi-decent wine or a meal at many fast-food joints. For the maid and her family, it’s huge.

Keep in mind that the average Cuban, working six days a week, earns roughly $10 per month – but that’s not enough to live on. When pressed for a number, a close friend finally said, “Well, one really needs about $20 each month.” I had to gently push for that figure for several reasons. First, Cubans are generally very proud. Second, it’s hard to calculate what a single person needs because most people do not live alone; the households are typically comprised of several generations of blended families, pooling their resources.

Wages alone are not enough to cover the cost of their basic needs. That’s why tips are vital and many people have some sort of sideline business. It’s about survival. They do what they need to do. And, from what I’ve observed, they routinely help each other.

Life is not easy in this land of sun and smiles but one does not hear a lot of complaining. That’s just the way it is – “Es Cuba,” as the title of a very evocative book by Lea Aschkenas states. It’s Cuba. One copes.

I’ve decided to do what I can to make coping easier for the people in the community I’ve fallen profoundly in love with – Marea del Portillo and the surrounding area, including Pilon and Mota. Of course I know I can’t save the world. I’m not trying to do that; I’m just trying to do a few small things to make a difference in some lives, to inspire more smiles. I love to see people smile, genuinely smile. It does my heart good. It feeds my soul.

Want to help? I’ll tell you how. To date, I’ve been reticent to overtly seek financial support for my endeavors in Cuba. Now, I’m ready to come out of the donation solicitation closet. I can’t issue you a charitable receipt but I will promise that it will all go to good use. I will continue to pay my own way to Cuba when I travel there twice a year. I want to make it clear that I am not trying to make money for myself through these projects; I am trying to help more people than is possible out of my own pocket.

If you don’t trust me to handle your money with wisdom and integrity, don’t worry, I can suggest other ways for you to help! For instance, if you have a reasonably good used bicycle to donate, that would be great. Thanks to the generosity of Algonquin Outfitters and other individuals, I’ve been able to supply four families, so far, with coveted and much-needed bikes. Transportation is such a challenge there that a bike is as essential as cars are to most Canadians.

AO's Mark Sinnige (left) adjusts Henry's bike seat.

When someone donates a bike, my friends at Algonquin Outfitters will tune it up and put in a box, ready to ship to Cuba. A Sunwing passenger can take one boxed bike on the plane for the modest fee of $30. On my last trip, I took one and was fortunate enough to find two agreeable people in my tour group to transport a pair of donated bikes – and their shipping cost had been graciously covered by the donor.

You should see how broadly someone smiles when you give him or her a bike! Mountain bikes are best but they are happy to get any kind. As well, they are glad to get extra tires, tools and accessories, so I always stuff the bike boxes with whatever I can, up to the maximum allowable weight of 20 kg.

Bikes are just one example of the things I have begun to routinely take with me to Cuba. I also take clothing, school supplies, basic medicine-cabinet supplies, pens, pencils and candy, as almost every Canadian tourist does. Beyond that, however, I’ve made a special effort to figure out what other, slightly more unusual, items are particularly useful.

Maya takes her bike for a test ride - thanks Raylene!

 Number one on my must-take list is this: solar-powered yard lights. They are relatively cheap – I watch for off-season sales and stockpile the better quality models ($2.50-$3/each for boxes of 20) but dollar-store versions are also okay, if that’s all I can get. If you think that lighting up one’s yard is not essential to life, you’re right. In Cuba, due to frequent power outages, people use them inside their homes at night, when the lights go out, for reading and other activities. These simple rechargeable lights are much better than trying to rely on cranky flashlights or failing batteries.

Although solar power is available for larger commercial applications (such as at the resort for heating water), as far as I know, I’m the first tourist to provide solar yard lights for families to use at home, at least in this underserved area. I’m rather proud to think that I had such a bright idea!

For me, thinking out of the box and simply looking around to see what might be helpful is great fun. I particularly like getting to know people personally, then surprising them with special gifts that will enhance in their lives – without them even knowing I had observed the need. I love to hear my new friends respond, “How did you know?!” I just shrug and smile. They smile back, even more warmly. Perfecto!

So, that’s what I’m up to. If you want to assist me with such life enhancement projects and small-scale, careful and discreet micro-lending endeavors, I would welcome it. You can contribute through the PayPal account attached to my blog (the yellow “Donate” button in the right-hand column). You are also most welcome to contact me with any questions or offers you may have: cubanacorazon@gmail.com.

I plan to continue organizing group trips to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo each October, for women only, and each April, open to anyone but with a loose theme. This year it was writing; next year it will be art and spirituality. The second annual All-Girl Posse trip is tentatively set for the last week of October. I will announce prices and booking deadlines in the next few months but, if you’d like to be added to my “I’d like to go” list, please send me an email or give me a call: 705-788-1791.

My dear and patient husband teases that I’ve become a Cuba-vangelist. Well, hallelujah and amen to that! It does feel like a calling to me.

Peacefully smiling,
Jenny

My pal Agustin, onion farmer and all-round good guy.

Improved security and food options at Marea resort

 This is a review I wrote for posting on TripAdvisor.com, following my visit to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, Cuba, April 7-21, 2011.

I’ve just returned from my fifth visit to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, in Cuba’s Granma region, and I am pleased to report there have been some significant improvements in two key areas: security and food.

Over the past few years, there have been some concerns with security at this small, off-the-beaten-track resort. Problems have been reported on numerous travel review sites but, after my last visit, I feel confident that this issue has been resolved, thanks to an innovative solution by the hotel management team.

Economic restructuring is occurring across Cuba; the impact is being felt everywhere, including at the Club Amigo Marea del Portillo/Farallon del Caribe facility. Nation-wide employment cutbacks have meant that many good people have been laid off or had their hours cut at this resort, which is the single largest employer of the area.

When security and theft problems at the Marea/Farallon complex recently came to a head – a guard was caught red-handed in a guest’s room – action had to be taken. The creative resolution to this issue is one that first-time guests would not likely even notice. Repeat visitors, however, will observe that there are no longer any brown-clad guards patrolling around the grounds. Instead, security service is now being provided by long-time employees of the resort who were laid off from other departments.

This elegant solution serves several needs. First, the resort saves money by not having to bring in guards from other areas, as was the case when security was provided through a contract with a national company. Second, it keeps more local people employed. Third, these people are familiar commodities; they are known to the management, they know the facility and they have a vested interest in keeping it running smoothly.

My hat is off to Sunwing rep Elena de Moya and the entire resort staff team for implementing such an excellent win-win solution! Although I did not feel unsafe in any way during my previous visits, I did have some concerns about potential theft. Now, I no longer do.

Now, I feel even more comfortable at this lovely place, which I think of as “the little resort that could.” Unfortunately, on this last visit, I did have one problem – I ate too much!

Food at Marea del Portillo has been another issue that’s loomed large in many visitors’ reviews. However, I feel this is being addressed as much as is possible, given the logistical problems associated with getting supplies in this rather isolated region.

In my observation, there were a few different items on the buffet and the outdoor grill adjacent to the dining room was operating much more regularly. This grill is where you go for customized omelets at breakfast or freshly prepared meats and vegetables at lunch or dinner. You may have to stand in line but it is well worth the wait! For instance, I had some of the best pork I’ve ever eaten at this grill – very tender and perfectly seasoned, thanks to Chicone’s skillful preparation.

On the buffet, I noticed rabbit (maybe I shouldn’t mention that, since I’m writing this on Easter weekend) and, since it’s not something I normally eat at home, I was happy to have the chance to try it. As well, I’ve eaten deliciously prepared sheep (not to be confused with lamb, mutton or goat) several times in the Marea dining room. And, as always, there were heaps of fresh vegetables and a nice array of fruit every day.

For me, food variety and security have been the only concerns I have ever had at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo; everything else is close enough to perfection that I have no complaints. I could rave about the polite and professional service, the cleanliness or the high caliber of staff in every department but I don’t need to because so many other reviewers do that already!

Would I go back? You betcha, baby! I’ve begun going twice a year, and organizing small groups to join me, mainly my friends and their friends or relatives. On this last trip, I was accompanied by 17 people, all of whom had a wonderful time. Many said they would like to visit my “happy place” again and, hopefully, stay for two weeks instead of just one.

I’m already planning my next two trips, in October and April. Whenever I visit, I know I’ll be warmly welcomed, and will likely strain my cheek muscles by smiling so hard.

Why I love Cuba, beyond the bountiful beaches

Cuba. What’s not to love? Who wouldn’t want a cheap holiday in the sun on a beautiful, beach-fringed island? Okay, who besides my husband? He would prefer a cheap holiday in the sun on a beautiful, snow-covered mountain. He’s aberrant, in my humble opinion.

Ski-toting hubbies aside, most people enjoy escaping Canada’s too-long winter every now and then. That’s certainly what I was doing a few years ago, when I discovered Cuba, well after Chris Columbus originally did in 1492.

Cheap? Beach? Sun? Fun? I’m in! And, so was one of my dearest friends and favorite traveling companions; Martine understood cheapbeachsunfun. We were off. And, before the year was out, I found myself returning to cheapbeachsunfun with other gal pals. Soon, I was adding other happy words to my growing collection of reasons to visit Cuba, and to revisit repeatedly.

Since that first tour of no duties in Cuba, I have begun holidaying there twice a year for two weeks at a time, and that’s beginning to seem like not nearly enough! But, I want you to know that my reasons for regularly returning to Cuba may not be what you're thinking.

For instance, I rarely ever sprawl myself on the beach and remain inert. When I’m at a beach, it is with activity in mind -– swimming, strolling, collecting seashells by the seashore, taking pictures, exploring what’s around the next beachy bend, bending into a yoga pretzel (only in the early morning, when no one’s around to view my graceless, butt-to-the-sky stretching), more immersion in the warm salty waves, further photography, etc.

And, please be advised, I not a party animal seeking booze-soaked fun. Nor do I have a secret Latin lover for sweat-drenched fun. (I did mention my husband, right? Although he has an irrational snow fixation, he’s pretty close to spousal perfection in most other ways. He rarely forgets to take out the recycling and, 99.9% of the time, he puts the cap back on the toothpaste. The rate is slightly lower for putting down the toilet seat.)

I do enjoy the Cuban coffee and rum, and I have returned home with more than one gift box of cigars, but these consumables would not be nearly enough to keep me going back. As I’m well aware, cheapbeachsunfun can also be found along other southern coastlines and warm Caribbean islands. I quite enjoyed spending time exploring Costa Rica in the past and was very envious of the trip some of my girlfriends recently took to my favorite old stomping ground in Guanacaste.

Cuba, however, is different – beyond the perplexing politics that sets it apart from many countries. Cubans are different. The people make the country special. Their culture captured my heart. That, in a coconutshell, is why I can’t get enough of the place. Cheapbeachsunfun was the original bait but I’ve moved on to other lures. What I’m now getting while I’m in Cuba is less tangible than a tan. I’m learning heart-expanding lessons on living. Spending time in Cuba is helping me become a better person in Canada.

I’ll give you a recent example of this unexpected phenomenon. Yesterday, as I was locking up my shop (reVIBE!), a little old lady appeared on my darkening doorstep. I’m not being euphemistic in any way – she was about four-foot-nothing and, in subsequent conversation, she proudly told me, “I’ll be 92 this year.” And, since I live in Muskoka and it’s February, it was getting dark at 6 p.m.

Grandma had just gotten off the bus and, as she explained, was several hours ahead of her ETA. Her granddaughter wasn’t expecting her to arrive until about 11 p.m. Thus, if she couldn’t reach her, this tiny, feisty senior would be facing a long cold wait in the dark. After calling the granddaughter’s number four times, we finally got her and she promised to scurry into town from her rural home, a good 20 or more minutes away. Grandma was clear that she did not want to put anyone out, so my store manager (Kathie) and I reluctantly left her to stand beneath a light by our front door.

After I dropped Kathie off at her home, however, I had to go back downtown to do some banking, necessitating a trip past the store. Granny was standing tall, so to speak. On the return trip from the bank, her granddaughter had not yet arrived, so I made up an excuse to stop. “Forgot to check for mail,” I told her, then began chatting with her as we both stood in the cold pool of light by the store door.

I didn’t have to wait. She had assured me that, if anyone bothered her, she’d “give ‘em one of these,” brandishing a gnarled knuckle sandwich. However, she quickly warmed up to the conversation and, before her granddaughter got there, I’d learned a lot about her thoroughly independent life. (By the way, if a reputable repairman says you need to replace your gas stove, you should probably do it...unless you want a fiery reason to remodel your kitchen.) Finally, by 7 p.m., I was happily heading home, feet frozen but heart warmed by granddaughter’s grateful hug.

I would have made it in 10 minutes flat but, as I was passing one of the last street lights, just beyond the funeral home at the edge of town, I had to stop. There, on a dim mound of mud-crusted snow at the side of the road stood a slight figure, thumb out. “What child is this, hitching a ride on a cold, dark night in the almost-boonies?” No self-respecting prison escapee would be wearing a pink pastel plaid jacket, I reasoned, so I stopped.

The person I’d mistaken for a wayward teen turned out to be a woman of nearly my own semi-advanced age. She was hitchhiking home from Huntsville to Hoodstown. (It’s more or less a ghost town in the northern Muskoka sticks!) She frequently did this, she said, but admitted that she often did more hiking than hitching because she typically finished work after the traffic had died down in the evening. However, like Grandma, she did not want to put me out; she assured me she would be fine if I left her at the intersection where I would normally turn off for home.

Well, I knew there would be fewer lights and less traffic beyond my turn-off, so I just drove her home. I didn’t even tell her when we zoomed by my road. She was genuinely thankful. It was close to 7:30 when I eventually rolled into my own driveway.

How does this relate to Cuba, you might well wonder. Have I wandered from my intended topic? No. The link was in my mind the whole time. While I was assisting these strangers, images of Cuban people were dancing between my ears. They regularly, readily help others, generously giving their time and energy, sharing their limited resources. They were my inspiration to go out of my way for the people in need I encountered yesterday.

I could have done the typical North American thing and driven past that hitchhiker, softly whispering “good luck” as I safely whisked by, double-checking that the car doors were securely locked. But, in Cuba, it’s downright rude to pass by a hitcher – at least along the less-traveled roads I frequent in the Granma region. My driving experiences in Cuba inspired me to think twice when I saw an unassuming wayfarer beside Ravenscliffe Road on my way home in the dark. I’m glad I stopped. If I see Wanda walking with her thumb out again, I will certainly give her a lift. She’s a nice person, whom I’m happy to have met.

Regarding Grandma, going out of my way for her was more specifically inspired by my Cubano friend Maykel. One incident in particular dominated my thoughts last evening, and has bounded through my brain at other times too. When we were driving together one day, heading out of town – in this case, it was his hometown, Pilon – he suddenly demanded that I stop the car. He’d recognized an old man at a bus stop. I barely had time to pull the rental jalopy off the road before Maykel had leaped out of its door and settled himself on the bench beside the little old man, who turned out to be an elderly uncle he hadn’t seen lately.

I couldn’t hear the conversation but I watched their interaction and read their body language. Maykel touched the uncle’s shoulder affectionately. They both nodded, smiled, and angled their bodies towards each other convivially. At one point, Maykel took out his wallet. Uncle shook his head. Maykel nodded firmly and pressed some money into his palm. They shook hands warmly. Perhaps they hugged. My memory is fuzzy on that last point because a large truck was growling up behind me and a bus coming the other way meant the beast would not be able to pass; we were blocking traffic. I beeped the horn but Maykel was already heading back to the car, jovially waving at the truck driver to deflect any potential ire.

The image of my friend giving his time – a more important gift than the money – to his elderly relative so spontaneously and generously is seered into my mind’s eye, tattooed on my heart. That is why I love Cuba. That is what spurs me to be a better person in Canada. I am now paying closer attention to how I interact with people here because I have witnessed how people relate to each other there, and it’s truly beautiful to see.

An April 14-21 trip update...and an admission

I can't stop raving about Cuba – especially my favorite place, Marea del Portillo, and the Granma region. I find myself gushing with the least provocation. (My apologies to any unsuspecting souls whom I verbally flooded without solicitation!)

I do try to restrain myself a little, every now and then, and to refrain from preaching to the same people or repeating myself too much. However, I must admit, I am in danger of being a zealot. In fact, I've recently begun to publicly acknowledge that I'm a Cuba-vangelist. Not normally an evangelical sort of person, this is a big step for me.

Wooh! I feel better now that I've got that big admission out of the way. Now, on to other things....

On Feb. 19, I hosted an information night for people who will be joining me at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, April 14-21. What a nice bunch of folks! I think this is going to be a great gang to travel with, as well as to hang out with on a lovely Cuban beach. There are a number of writers in the group, as well as artists, and, unlike the October all-women trip, this posse includes several men.

Today, Feb. 21, is the official deadline for booking this trip at $598/week for the VIP Cabana package, but I can still add more people to the group right through the beginning of April (as long as there is still space at the resort). The only caveat is that the price is no longer guaranteed. Having noted that, however, I would hasten to add that, in my somewhat limited experience, last-minute prices for April at this off-the-beaten-track all-inclusive resort should be pretty close to $600, if not below.

Even if you aren't a writer, you are most welcome to join April's "Write in Cuba" tour – the writing workshops are optional and the fee for participation in them is separate. (It's an additional $60 or more, depending what you can afford, for the whole package, including one-on-one mentoring by established and versatile writer Karen Wehrstein, who will be leading the workshops.) So far, we have 18 people in the group, including Karen and me, but we'd be happy to have a few more.

For further data about the workshops, the trip in general or what's included in the VIP package, you can use the links listed in "ABOUT MY PROJECTS." Above this section, you will also find links to online photo albums that show the Club Amigo Marea del Portillo and some of the surrounding area.

Please feel free to contact me directly (jcgb@vianet.ca) to inquire about the April 14-21, 2011, trip or other groups that I will be putting together in the future. At present, I'm tentatively planning to organize another All-Girl Posse in October of this year and to offer an April 2012 trip with the general theme of art and spirituality. If interest continues, I will keep arranging a women's trip each fall and a themed trip each spring.

Come on along and let me introduce you to some of the wonderful people and beautiful places I love in Cuba!

Your friendly neighborhood Cuba-vangelist,
Jenny