DIAMOND ON THE SOLE OF CUBA

This is my most recent review of Club Amigo Marea del Portillo. It's now posted on TripAdvisor.com, along with a few photos from my latest trip, Oct. 31-Nov. 21, 2013. Here's a link: "Diamond" review with photos.

For information on upcoming trips, please visit my new site, JennicaCuba. It has been set up specifically for booking group trips, so it won't have poetry, short stories and such stuff – just necessary data. I hope you will check it out! Meanwhile, here's my review....

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Even if you’re not a fan of Paul Simon’s music, you’ve probably heard the song 

“Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes,” a catchy pop tune from his iconic 1986 release, 

Graceland. It’s an engaging song! 

When I describe the location of Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, I often tell people, “If you 

think of Cuba as a leg with a foot, then it’s located on the sole, near the heel.” Situated 

on the southern rim of the island, this little resort is a perfect gem of a place. Therefore, 

I think it’s apt to describe Marea del Portillo as a diamond on the sole of Cuba. And, it’s 

an engaging place! 

For many people, Club Amigo Marea del Portillo could also be described as a diamond of 

the soul in Cuba. I can safely state that because this humble Sunwing-run resort has 

one of the highest rates of returnees in the entire tourist-infested country. This is 

particularly remarkable since it’s in a relatively remote region, far from popular urban 

hubs like Havana, Varadero and Santiago de Cuba. But, there’s something special about 

the place and, before I realized what was happening, I too had become one of the 

raving repeaters. 

WHY IS THIS LITTLE RESORT SO POPULAR? 

First, for most folks, the exceptional natural beauty of the area is captivating. The 

majestic Sierra Maestra Mountains rise behind the resort, encircling it in a protective 

way, like arms around you on a stormy night. In front of the hotel and cabaña complex, 

the ocean rolls and lolls in a horseshoe bay, punctuated on one side by a dramatic 

scenic vista and, on the other, by a tranquil mangrove. The beach itself is beige sand, 

sprinkled with interesting multi-colored pebbles at one end and populated with palapas. 

Another thing that many visitors notice and appreciate is the friendly and professional 

service; the staff at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo is second to none. They work hard to 

address any concerns guests may have and to ensure the best possible experience for 

everyone – from toddlers to seniors and all ages in between. 

During my most recent visit (November 2012), the 40 people I traveled with ranged in 

age from 6 months to 85 years, and they all had a wonderful time. Several members of 

the group had been to this resort in the past – with previous trips I’d organized or on 

their own. For the majority, though, this was their inaugural visit, but it won’t likely be 

their last. In fact, some of us are already planning trips in April and October of 2013. 

IT’S A LOVELY, PEACEFUL PLACE TO RELAX! 

It’s easy to become hooked on Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, as the many repeat 

visitors will verify. Why? I’ve mentioned the top-notch staff and beautiful scenery but, 

beyond that, the atmosphere itself is a big factor in the magic of Marea, in my opinion. 

The place has a very peaceful, laid-back feeling and is not a pumping party zone – at

least not when I’ve been there (typically at the beginning or end of the high season for 

tourist traffic). 

Of course, you can always find or create a party if you want – the bar is now open all 

night! In general, though, I’d say this resort is more geared to families and people who 

are not inclined to get stupidly drunk and stumble into the pool. It’s perfect for relaxing, 

in just about any way that suits you! 

During the day, there are activities for children of all ages, including yoga – ask for 

Maya, who leads classes whenever possible. There are also dance lessons and pool-side 

games, as well as entertaining stage shows every evening that feature a bevy of 

wonderful dancers, awesome musicians, an excellent magician and some very amusing 

comedic performers. If you’re interested in more athletic activities, there are many 

options. For instance, you can go horseback riding with Chichi, kayaking or sailing on 

the bay, hiking or biking at your own pace. 

A FEW NOTES ON FOOD AND FACILITIES... 

Before I conclude this review, I would be remiss if I didn’t comment on two other 

things: food and facilities. Regarding food, I’ve often heard people complain about 

Cuba’s cuisine but I think the important thing to remember is that they work with what 

is available and the food is generally fresh and organic. Some people I spoke with in 

November mentioned they felt the food at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo was completely 

on par with the quality of what was offered at a five-star in Varadero where they’d 

stayed not long ago. 

One thing I particularly like is that there’s always some yummy food being prepared at 

the grill in the Marea hotel dining room, such as custom-made omelets every morning. 

Even for people with multiple food sensitivities like me, there are plenty of tasty options 

on the buffet, including several types of meat, seasonal fruits and vegetables. 

When it comes to the facilities, I’ve noticed over the years that Club Amigo Marea del 

Portillo is consistently clean and well maintained. The grounds are groomed perpetually, 

the beach is raked at dawn, the sidewalks are swept and washed daily, and the 

buildings themselves are regularly painted and upgraded. This year, the impetus seems 

to be to replace doors, particularly in the cabaña section. I observed that each newly 

installed solid wooden door was equipped with a modern electronic key-card lock – a 

significant improvement! 

I’ve also heard about other improvements that are in the works, so I’ll be very curious to 

see what’s been accomplished by the time I return in April. And, I’ll be sure to let you 

know about how this Cuban diamond is being further polished!

Chau,

Jenny

Maybe my angels are working overtime (again)

A funny thing happened on the way to booking my Oct. 31 group trip to Cuba....

NOW, I can call it "funny" but, at first, I would not have ascribed such a gentle descriptor. Earlier this week, I was sitting at my desk, preparing my group list for the annual All-Girl-Yoga-Posse trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo. Despite the fact that the trip would not be flying out of Toronto until Oct. 31, the booking deadline loomed large on my June calendar. It was time to call Sunwing, pay the deposit and officially lock in our prices.

A computerized "ding" alerted me to a fresh email. It was from my Sunwing rep. In her usual cryptic style, she was writing to inform me that the flight schedule had been altered and, instead of 8 nights, my group would now only have 7. What?! What about the two-weekers? Would they now have 14, not 15 nights? There was no mention of them, nor was there a reference to the price. I already had 24 people signed up – $150 deposit fee paid by each – based on $636 for eight 8 nights or $838 for 15.

Struggling not to use other F-adjectives, I called Sunwing and chatted with my rep. The flight schedule to this part of Cuba had been revised for the entire winter, she explained. Such things happen. Sunwing has very comprehensive fine print, so the corporation can simply shrug it off; apologies are not even considered necessary. She she assured me, however, she would get me a new and improved price pronto, as well as an extended booking deadline. She did.

The all-inclusive prices are now $618 for 7 nights or $818 for 14 for the upgraded VIP Cabana package – for EVERYTHING, including all taxes, flights, accommodation, sunset cruise, lobster on an idyllic beach, etc. And, there's no "single supplement" at that time of year, so you don't have to pay extra to have a private room. But, if you want to share, there are twin beds in each cabana.

Okay, that's about $20 off the already great prices. Interesting. I had been thinking about adding on a small percentage – optional, of course – for my humanitarian work in that impoverished part of rural Cuba. Since I'm not a registered travel agent, I can not legally take a cut for the work I do to organize the trips I lead to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo; the prices my group members get is exactly the cost I'm quoted, with no service fee added in. And, I pay for my own trips, which are now usually twice a year. I also have other expenses due to the projects I've begun in the region, such as distributing free bikes, clothing and other necessities to people in the outlying areas, often far from the resort.

If I had about $20 from each person in my group, I'd been dreaming, that would cover the cost of car rental and gas to get way out into the mountains and help many farm families – people who wouldn't ordinarily even encounter tourists. Well, it seems like my wishful thinking worked! The universe heard me, you could say, or my angels are working overtime (again). Since people have already been expecting to pay $636 or $838, perhaps they won't mind contributing the difference between that and the new rates to the Cuban Friends' Fund (CFF) to facilitate my humanitarian projects.

People help in many ways, within their budgets, so I've been reticent to ask for extra money – but this provides a perfect opportunity to gently encourage donations! So, if you're going with me to Marea del Portillo on Oct. 31, I hope you won't mind paying the previous price, even though the trip is now one day less, and making a contribution to the CFF. The stage is set for me to humbly ask....

He wanted to ask me: Why are you doing this?

The curious farmer.

I keep thinking about the people I've met in Cuba. Naturally, each person is different in many ways yet, in one way, they're the same: curious. In my experience, the people in Cuba are more curious than the cats.

One farmer, especially, keeps sitting in my mind, just as he did the day I met him. He was the host on the day I drove deep into the Sierra Maestra mountains to deliver a carload of suitcases overflowing with clothing and other supplies for the rural families. He placed a table in the yard beside his rambling farmhouse, then sat down on a log to watch as my friend and I arranged the display of gifts.

Suitcases full of free clothing for families in the mountains.

He kept watching me. But, he wasn't watching in a leering, finger-biting way. He was simply and sincerely curious. I could tell he wanted to ask me something but knew our lack of a mutual language would make conversation impossible. His curiosity was bigger than his pigeon English and my pichón Español could satisfy, even with hand gestures; there was no point in cooking frustration stew. So, he just watched me.

I took many random pictures that day, as I always do, of the suitcases, of the people picking out clothes, of the abundant turkeys, of the farmers and their families. I took several pictures of this man but, whenever my camera was focused on him, he became shy. He would glance slightly away and his half-smile would dim.

A few of the many turkeys at a farm I visited.

Now, in my mind, he sits on his small log, wearing his straw hat and looking directly at me, still wanting to ask his question: Why are you doing this?

I have thought about how I would answer him. I have thought about it a lot because he's not the only one who wants to know. I do too. Why am I working so hard to help the people in this isolated, impoverished part of rural Cuba?

The short answer is: Because I can. The longer, less blithe answer is a work in progress. Every time I try to answer this question,  I feel like I am chasing feathers in the wind. Sometimes I can grasp one reason, but then another dances by and it must be added to the collection of whys.

This time, the longer answer begins this way: The place and its people have put a mark upon my heart. I have been invisibly tattooed. They have branded my soul. Does that sound blithe too? I don't mean to seem casual about this. What I feel regarding this piece of Cuba is very serious but very hard to definitively confine. It's a big, open-hearted something that makes me cry and smile at the same time, for no reason and because of everything.

Perhaps you could say it's a spiritual calling. Or, maybe it's karma. I really don't know why I feel so connected to this community. I just am. So, I will keep doing what I can to help improve the lives of the people in and around Marea del Portillo and Pilón, in the cradle of land between the sea and the Sierra Maestra mountains, where my heart is gently rocked.

The Little Resort That Could: Marea del Portillo

The following post is a review that I recently wrote for TripAdvisor.com. I'm apparently on my way to earning some kind of virtual badge....whatever!

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Just like the hero of the children’s story “The Little Engine That Could,” Club Amigo Marea del Portillo keeps chugging along, and accomplishing more than others might anticipate.

There will always be bumps in the road – and, since it’s in Cuba, there will be goats too. Despite the obstacles, however, I see improvements at the little resort every time I visit. In April (2012), I was there for my seventh stay, which is a very small number compared to many of the “repeaters” who have considered this their second home for well over a decade. Club Amigo Farallon del Caribe – Marea del Portillo may be a tiny dot on the tourism radar but it has one of the highest return-visitor rates of any resort on the island, perhaps even THE highest.

This resort is in a rather obscure location along the southern sole of Cuba, deep in the historically significant Granma region. It’s primarily an agricultural area, not known for its cultural activities. Don’t plan to see the Cuban ballet in Pilón, the nearest town of any significant size. Don’t expect to shop anywhere except the resort “tienda.” But, if you are looking for “authentic Cuba,” you will find it here. In fact, it will be delivered with a smile, time and again, by almost everyone you meet, either at the resort or in the adjacent village of the same name, Marea del Portillo.

Keep in mind, though, that this place is at the low end of the food chain, in more ways than one. This humble resort is one of the smallest in the Club Amigo chain, and it’s physically and metaphorically on the wrong side of the mountain when it comes to supplies. That means the buffet may not always have the widest selection and the bar may not have the best booze options all the time, but there are many factors involved.

This was the case when I was there for three weeks in April. Sunwing had suspended summer service; my departing flight on April 26 was supposed to be the last plane until Nov. 1, when flights would again begin arriving from Toronto (Nov. 15 from Montreal). The Farallon del Caribe, the largest hotel of the resort, closed April 19 and nobody knew for sure if the beachfront Marea hotel and cabanas would continue to operate during the summer.

I am not a picky person but, even I began to find the buffet a bit of a challenge; I was glad there were some newly opened restaurants in the village, within walking distance of the resort. Then, during my final week, everything changed. Sunwing reinstated its usual weekly summer flights and guests would begin arriving at the resort April 26, May 3, and so forth. Staff smiles grew wider and relief was apparent in many eyes – they would not be laid off after all. And, suddenly, the buffet was overflowing with a tasty array of fresh offerings, including lobster, to my great delight!

Perhaps the management had been hesitant to reorder food supplies because they feared the resort would have to close. I don’t know but, to me, that would have been a logical business decision – cutting losses. If so, I certainly wouldn’t fault them. However, I can also understand that some people who were there earlier in April may have gone home grumbling about the paltry food options at the resort. Well, all I can say is, I ate well during my last week!

Food aside, this little resort keeps chugging along in other ways too. I see physical improvements every time I go, which is usually twice a year – I now organize group trips in the shoulder seasons, April and October. Last year, they installed a large grill and covered dining area beside the Marea hotel pool, and it is an excellent addition. This year, they are rebuilding a thatched gazebo between that hotel and the beach. It will be at least twice the previous size and, the rumor is, this structure may become another bar or eatery of some sort, possibly with 24/7 service. I’ve also heard that more renovations to the Marea hotel are on the agenda; it’s the oldest part of the resort complex, so that makes sense.

Before I developed an attachment to this place and its people, I had preferred to go somewhere different almost every I could travel. If I returned to the same location, I would merely use it as a stepping stone for broader exploration. Now that I’ve gotten to know Marea del Portillo, I find that I want to keep going back and exploring in a different way; I want to get to know the community and learn more about authentic Cuban life.

This little resort, Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, provides a safe, comfortable and affordable base for me, as it does for the dozens of repeat visitors. It may not have the highest rating in some travel guides but it gets five stars in many hearts!

– Jenny Cressman (written May 25, 2012)