He wanted to ask me: Why are you doing this?

The curious farmer.

I keep thinking about the people I've met in Cuba. Naturally, each person is different in many ways yet, in one way, they're the same: curious. In my experience, the people in Cuba are more curious than the cats.

One farmer, especially, keeps sitting in my mind, just as he did the day I met him. He was the host on the day I drove deep into the Sierra Maestra mountains to deliver a carload of suitcases overflowing with clothing and other supplies for the rural families. He placed a table in the yard beside his rambling farmhouse, then sat down on a log to watch as my friend and I arranged the display of gifts.

Suitcases full of free clothing for families in the mountains.

He kept watching me. But, he wasn't watching in a leering, finger-biting way. He was simply and sincerely curious. I could tell he wanted to ask me something but knew our lack of a mutual language would make conversation impossible. His curiosity was bigger than his pigeon English and my pichón Español could satisfy, even with hand gestures; there was no point in cooking frustration stew. So, he just watched me.

I took many random pictures that day, as I always do, of the suitcases, of the people picking out clothes, of the abundant turkeys, of the farmers and their families. I took several pictures of this man but, whenever my camera was focused on him, he became shy. He would glance slightly away and his half-smile would dim.

A few of the many turkeys at a farm I visited.

Now, in my mind, he sits on his small log, wearing his straw hat and looking directly at me, still wanting to ask his question: Why are you doing this?

I have thought about how I would answer him. I have thought about it a lot because he's not the only one who wants to know. I do too. Why am I working so hard to help the people in this isolated, impoverished part of rural Cuba?

The short answer is: Because I can. The longer, less blithe answer is a work in progress. Every time I try to answer this question,  I feel like I am chasing feathers in the wind. Sometimes I can grasp one reason, but then another dances by and it must be added to the collection of whys.

This time, the longer answer begins this way: The place and its people have put a mark upon my heart. I have been invisibly tattooed. They have branded my soul. Does that sound blithe too? I don't mean to seem casual about this. What I feel regarding this piece of Cuba is very serious but very hard to definitively confine. It's a big, open-hearted something that makes me cry and smile at the same time, for no reason and because of everything.

Perhaps you could say it's a spiritual calling. Or, maybe it's karma. I really don't know why I feel so connected to this community. I just am. So, I will keep doing what I can to help improve the lives of the people in and around Marea del Portillo and Pilón, in the cradle of land between the sea and the Sierra Maestra mountains, where my heart is gently rocked.

The Little Resort That Could: Marea del Portillo

The following post is a review that I recently wrote for TripAdvisor.com. I'm apparently on my way to earning some kind of virtual badge....whatever!

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Just like the hero of the children’s story “The Little Engine That Could,” Club Amigo Marea del Portillo keeps chugging along, and accomplishing more than others might anticipate.

There will always be bumps in the road – and, since it’s in Cuba, there will be goats too. Despite the obstacles, however, I see improvements at the little resort every time I visit. In April (2012), I was there for my seventh stay, which is a very small number compared to many of the “repeaters” who have considered this their second home for well over a decade. Club Amigo Farallon del Caribe – Marea del Portillo may be a tiny dot on the tourism radar but it has one of the highest return-visitor rates of any resort on the island, perhaps even THE highest.

This resort is in a rather obscure location along the southern sole of Cuba, deep in the historically significant Granma region. It’s primarily an agricultural area, not known for its cultural activities. Don’t plan to see the Cuban ballet in Pilón, the nearest town of any significant size. Don’t expect to shop anywhere except the resort “tienda.” But, if you are looking for “authentic Cuba,” you will find it here. In fact, it will be delivered with a smile, time and again, by almost everyone you meet, either at the resort or in the adjacent village of the same name, Marea del Portillo.

Keep in mind, though, that this place is at the low end of the food chain, in more ways than one. This humble resort is one of the smallest in the Club Amigo chain, and it’s physically and metaphorically on the wrong side of the mountain when it comes to supplies. That means the buffet may not always have the widest selection and the bar may not have the best booze options all the time, but there are many factors involved.

This was the case when I was there for three weeks in April. Sunwing had suspended summer service; my departing flight on April 26 was supposed to be the last plane until Nov. 1, when flights would again begin arriving from Toronto (Nov. 15 from Montreal). The Farallon del Caribe, the largest hotel of the resort, closed April 19 and nobody knew for sure if the beachfront Marea hotel and cabanas would continue to operate during the summer.

I am not a picky person but, even I began to find the buffet a bit of a challenge; I was glad there were some newly opened restaurants in the village, within walking distance of the resort. Then, during my final week, everything changed. Sunwing reinstated its usual weekly summer flights and guests would begin arriving at the resort April 26, May 3, and so forth. Staff smiles grew wider and relief was apparent in many eyes – they would not be laid off after all. And, suddenly, the buffet was overflowing with a tasty array of fresh offerings, including lobster, to my great delight!

Perhaps the management had been hesitant to reorder food supplies because they feared the resort would have to close. I don’t know but, to me, that would have been a logical business decision – cutting losses. If so, I certainly wouldn’t fault them. However, I can also understand that some people who were there earlier in April may have gone home grumbling about the paltry food options at the resort. Well, all I can say is, I ate well during my last week!

Food aside, this little resort keeps chugging along in other ways too. I see physical improvements every time I go, which is usually twice a year – I now organize group trips in the shoulder seasons, April and October. Last year, they installed a large grill and covered dining area beside the Marea hotel pool, and it is an excellent addition. This year, they are rebuilding a thatched gazebo between that hotel and the beach. It will be at least twice the previous size and, the rumor is, this structure may become another bar or eatery of some sort, possibly with 24/7 service. I’ve also heard that more renovations to the Marea hotel are on the agenda; it’s the oldest part of the resort complex, so that makes sense.

Before I developed an attachment to this place and its people, I had preferred to go somewhere different almost every I could travel. If I returned to the same location, I would merely use it as a stepping stone for broader exploration. Now that I’ve gotten to know Marea del Portillo, I find that I want to keep going back and exploring in a different way; I want to get to know the community and learn more about authentic Cuban life.

This little resort, Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, provides a safe, comfortable and affordable base for me, as it does for the dozens of repeat visitors. It may not have the highest rating in some travel guides but it gets five stars in many hearts!

– Jenny Cressman (written May 25, 2012)

Now booking Oct. 31 trip to Marea del Portillo

UPDATE: OFFICIAL PRICES ARE NOW 8 NIGHTS/$636 OR 15 NIGHTS/$838 BUT I NEED TO HEAR FROM YOU BY JUNE 6.  ~  JENNY

The information below is a notice I sent out recently to my "You're invited to Cuba!" email list. Since I sent it, the prices posted on the Sunwing website have dropped; I'm awaiting a revised quote. 

Going out on a mathematical limb, I would guess the new prices will be approx. 8 nights/$630 and 15 nights/$835 - no promises! All I can say is that I get a rate that is slightly better than what is on the website - and I pass that on to my groups without taking a percentage for myself.

Of course, if you wish to contribute financially to my humanitarian work, you can use the "Donate" button in the right column of my blog. You can donate regardless of whether you choose to travel with me or not! It is another way to help this rural, impoverished region of southern Cuba.

All-Girl-Yoga-Posse 2011 - Bendy Wendy Martin leading yoga at sunrise.

CUBA Oct. 31, 2012 trip - book by June 6

Yes, that's right, you need to plan ahead if you want to join the next All-Girl-Yoga-Posse trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, Cuba! 

Why so early? Because I got a great price, if we book now...

VIP Cabana (upgraded all-inclusive package)

       8 nights:  $678

       15 nights:  $888

Please note that these prices include EVERYTHING - food, beverages, accommodation, flight and all taxes. AND, we'll have an extra day to play because we depart on a Wednesday but return on a Thursday due to Sunwing's seasonal schedule change.

       Depart:  Oct. 31

       Return:  Nov. 8 or 15

Wendy Martin of Sacred Breath Yoga will be offering yoga on the beach during the first week (Oct. 31-Nov. 8). This is a separate option, so it's not included in the package price; her fee (to be confirmed) will likely be $60-65/week for up to two yoga classes each day - a great deal!

In order to book you, I need three things by June 6:

       1. Your name as it appears on your passport

       2. Your date of birth

       3. A non-refundable deposit of $150 CDN

When you reply with the above info., please indicate whether you want to go for one or two weeks and how you will pay the deposit. If it's more convenient, you can use my PayPal account (the "Donate" button on my blog: cubanacorazon.blogspot.ca), send money via email or drop it off at my store. There should also be time to snail-mail me a cheque.

Please do NOT pay the full amount at this time because there is a very good chance I will be able to get a price reduction in the next two months - another reason why booking early is advantageous!

This notice is going out to a large e-list that includes men; please pass the invitation on to any women in your life who may want to join the posse. I do not plan to send out any more mass emails regarding this special offer. My apologies to those who are not interested or are receiving this twice. 

I already have about a dozen women who have indicated that they want to go on this trip, which is especially nice because most have travelled with me previously and they're wonderful! Now, however, I need your money, honey....by June 6.

Two more things: 

- I will be able to add more people after the booking deadline BUT how many I can add will depend on how many I book initially (a Sunwing group booking quirk). So, I need to book as many people as possible by June 6.

- Those of you who were on the Oct. 2011 trip will probably remember Wally & Eileen Cringle, the group's adopted grandparents; they want to book as part of our posse this year. I hope nobody minds that I'm making an exception to the women-only rule...I won't require Wally to have a sex change!

And, on that note, I'm finally out of things to say!

Book away,

Jenny

Event held to support projects helping rural Cuba

The following media release was used to promote a recent event that raised money for my Cuba projects. We didn't have as big a turn-out as we had hoped, so we didn't make a huge heap of money but we had fun and spread the word at least a little. We will probably try do another event in late summer or early fall.
 

May 12 event to raise money for humanitarian work in Cuba

When most people go to an all-inclusive Caribbean resort, they like to lounge by the pool or hang out on the beach, but one Huntsville resident has little time for that when she visits Cuba.

The first time Jenny Cressman went to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, a small resort in Cuba’s rural Granma region, it was essentially a fluke. “My girlfriend and I simply picked the cheapest beach we could find one winter,” she said. “But, very quickly, I became hooked on the place. I literally fell in love with the country and the people of the community surrounding the resort.”

Since that initial visit in 2009, Cressman has been returning to the same location twice annually, usually leading groups that sometimes swell to over 40 participants. With the support of the people who travel with her, as well as family and friends at home, she has been able to do what she refers to as “small-scale humanitarian work” in one of the more remote, impoverished parts of Cuba. “I’m doing whatever I can to help people in this area, which is primarily agricultural.”

In order to facilitate further work, a fundraising event has been planned for May 12, 1-4 p.m., in Huntsville’s Sutherland Hall. Billed as the “Cuban Friends’ Fund Art and Fashion Show,” tickets are $10 each or two for $15. All ticket money will go to the CFF, along with a portion of proceeds from any artwork sold during the show.

The event will include a fashion show with models from the local high school, an assortment of artwork on display and for sale, a concert by the Huntsville Youth Choir, drumming with Adam Fisher, yoga with Wendy Martin and an opportunity for mini reflexology treatments by Laura Heming. The fashion show will begin about 2 p.m., featuring clothes from reVIBE! and hairstyles by Alberto Salon and Spa. It will be followed by a door prize draw. The afternoon will end on a high note with music led by Ruth Cassie.

“While I was in Cuba,” Cressman commented, “staff from Alberto Salon and reVIBE! have been working on planning this event to support my projects, which is really wonderful.” During the most recent trip, in April, she and her group were able to take 10 bicycles and several hundred pounds of clothing, toiletries, solar lights and other vital items. Most of these gifts were distributed in rural areas, to people who don’t ordinarily have the opportunity to interact with tourists. “One farmer was so grateful, he tried to give me a live turkey.”

This is the farmer who wanted to give me a thank-you turkey!

Organizers hope that, even if people aren’t able to attend Saturday’s event, they will consider buying tickets as a way to assist in raising money for this special cause. Tickets are available at reVIBE! (705-788-5078), Alberto Salon and Spa (705-788-2700) and a few other locations in Huntsville.

I  took clothes and other gifts to families in the Sierra Maestra Mountains.