DIAMOND ON THE SOLE OF CUBA

This is my most recent review of Club Amigo Marea del Portillo. It's now posted on TripAdvisor.com, along with a few photos from my latest trip, Oct. 31-Nov. 21, 2013. Here's a link: "Diamond" review with photos.

For information on upcoming trips, please visit my new site, JennicaCuba. It has been set up specifically for booking group trips, so it won't have poetry, short stories and such stuff – just necessary data. I hope you will check it out! Meanwhile, here's my review....

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Even if you’re not a fan of Paul Simon’s music, you’ve probably heard the song 

“Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes,” a catchy pop tune from his iconic 1986 release, 

Graceland. It’s an engaging song! 

When I describe the location of Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, I often tell people, “If you 

think of Cuba as a leg with a foot, then it’s located on the sole, near the heel.” Situated 

on the southern rim of the island, this little resort is a perfect gem of a place. Therefore, 

I think it’s apt to describe Marea del Portillo as a diamond on the sole of Cuba. And, it’s 

an engaging place! 

For many people, Club Amigo Marea del Portillo could also be described as a diamond of 

the soul in Cuba. I can safely state that because this humble Sunwing-run resort has 

one of the highest rates of returnees in the entire tourist-infested country. This is 

particularly remarkable since it’s in a relatively remote region, far from popular urban 

hubs like Havana, Varadero and Santiago de Cuba. But, there’s something special about 

the place and, before I realized what was happening, I too had become one of the 

raving repeaters. 

WHY IS THIS LITTLE RESORT SO POPULAR? 

First, for most folks, the exceptional natural beauty of the area is captivating. The 

majestic Sierra Maestra Mountains rise behind the resort, encircling it in a protective 

way, like arms around you on a stormy night. In front of the hotel and cabaña complex, 

the ocean rolls and lolls in a horseshoe bay, punctuated on one side by a dramatic 

scenic vista and, on the other, by a tranquil mangrove. The beach itself is beige sand, 

sprinkled with interesting multi-colored pebbles at one end and populated with palapas. 

Another thing that many visitors notice and appreciate is the friendly and professional 

service; the staff at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo is second to none. They work hard to 

address any concerns guests may have and to ensure the best possible experience for 

everyone – from toddlers to seniors and all ages in between. 

During my most recent visit (November 2012), the 40 people I traveled with ranged in 

age from 6 months to 85 years, and they all had a wonderful time. Several members of 

the group had been to this resort in the past – with previous trips I’d organized or on 

their own. For the majority, though, this was their inaugural visit, but it won’t likely be 

their last. In fact, some of us are already planning trips in April and October of 2013. 

IT’S A LOVELY, PEACEFUL PLACE TO RELAX! 

It’s easy to become hooked on Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, as the many repeat 

visitors will verify. Why? I’ve mentioned the top-notch staff and beautiful scenery but, 

beyond that, the atmosphere itself is a big factor in the magic of Marea, in my opinion. 

The place has a very peaceful, laid-back feeling and is not a pumping party zone – at

least not when I’ve been there (typically at the beginning or end of the high season for 

tourist traffic). 

Of course, you can always find or create a party if you want – the bar is now open all 

night! In general, though, I’d say this resort is more geared to families and people who 

are not inclined to get stupidly drunk and stumble into the pool. It’s perfect for relaxing, 

in just about any way that suits you! 

During the day, there are activities for children of all ages, including yoga – ask for 

Maya, who leads classes whenever possible. There are also dance lessons and pool-side 

games, as well as entertaining stage shows every evening that feature a bevy of 

wonderful dancers, awesome musicians, an excellent magician and some very amusing 

comedic performers. If you’re interested in more athletic activities, there are many 

options. For instance, you can go horseback riding with Chichi, kayaking or sailing on 

the bay, hiking or biking at your own pace. 

A FEW NOTES ON FOOD AND FACILITIES... 

Before I conclude this review, I would be remiss if I didn’t comment on two other 

things: food and facilities. Regarding food, I’ve often heard people complain about 

Cuba’s cuisine but I think the important thing to remember is that they work with what 

is available and the food is generally fresh and organic. Some people I spoke with in 

November mentioned they felt the food at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo was completely 

on par with the quality of what was offered at a five-star in Varadero where they’d 

stayed not long ago. 

One thing I particularly like is that there’s always some yummy food being prepared at 

the grill in the Marea hotel dining room, such as custom-made omelets every morning. 

Even for people with multiple food sensitivities like me, there are plenty of tasty options 

on the buffet, including several types of meat, seasonal fruits and vegetables. 

When it comes to the facilities, I’ve noticed over the years that Club Amigo Marea del 

Portillo is consistently clean and well maintained. The grounds are groomed perpetually, 

the beach is raked at dawn, the sidewalks are swept and washed daily, and the 

buildings themselves are regularly painted and upgraded. This year, the impetus seems 

to be to replace doors, particularly in the cabaña section. I observed that each newly 

installed solid wooden door was equipped with a modern electronic key-card lock – a 

significant improvement! 

I’ve also heard about other improvements that are in the works, so I’ll be very curious to 

see what’s been accomplished by the time I return in April. And, I’ll be sure to let you 

know about how this Cuban diamond is being further polished!

Chau,

Jenny

Maybe my angels are working overtime (again)

A funny thing happened on the way to booking my Oct. 31 group trip to Cuba....

NOW, I can call it "funny" but, at first, I would not have ascribed such a gentle descriptor. Earlier this week, I was sitting at my desk, preparing my group list for the annual All-Girl-Yoga-Posse trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo. Despite the fact that the trip would not be flying out of Toronto until Oct. 31, the booking deadline loomed large on my June calendar. It was time to call Sunwing, pay the deposit and officially lock in our prices.

A computerized "ding" alerted me to a fresh email. It was from my Sunwing rep. In her usual cryptic style, she was writing to inform me that the flight schedule had been altered and, instead of 8 nights, my group would now only have 7. What?! What about the two-weekers? Would they now have 14, not 15 nights? There was no mention of them, nor was there a reference to the price. I already had 24 people signed up – $150 deposit fee paid by each – based on $636 for eight 8 nights or $838 for 15.

Struggling not to use other F-adjectives, I called Sunwing and chatted with my rep. The flight schedule to this part of Cuba had been revised for the entire winter, she explained. Such things happen. Sunwing has very comprehensive fine print, so the corporation can simply shrug it off; apologies are not even considered necessary. She she assured me, however, she would get me a new and improved price pronto, as well as an extended booking deadline. She did.

The all-inclusive prices are now $618 for 7 nights or $818 for 14 for the upgraded VIP Cabana package – for EVERYTHING, including all taxes, flights, accommodation, sunset cruise, lobster on an idyllic beach, etc. And, there's no "single supplement" at that time of year, so you don't have to pay extra to have a private room. But, if you want to share, there are twin beds in each cabana.

Okay, that's about $20 off the already great prices. Interesting. I had been thinking about adding on a small percentage – optional, of course – for my humanitarian work in that impoverished part of rural Cuba. Since I'm not a registered travel agent, I can not legally take a cut for the work I do to organize the trips I lead to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo; the prices my group members get is exactly the cost I'm quoted, with no service fee added in. And, I pay for my own trips, which are now usually twice a year. I also have other expenses due to the projects I've begun in the region, such as distributing free bikes, clothing and other necessities to people in the outlying areas, often far from the resort.

If I had about $20 from each person in my group, I'd been dreaming, that would cover the cost of car rental and gas to get way out into the mountains and help many farm families – people who wouldn't ordinarily even encounter tourists. Well, it seems like my wishful thinking worked! The universe heard me, you could say, or my angels are working overtime (again). Since people have already been expecting to pay $636 or $838, perhaps they won't mind contributing the difference between that and the new rates to the Cuban Friends' Fund (CFF) to facilitate my humanitarian projects.

People help in many ways, within their budgets, so I've been reticent to ask for extra money – but this provides a perfect opportunity to gently encourage donations! So, if you're going with me to Marea del Portillo on Oct. 31, I hope you won't mind paying the previous price, even though the trip is now one day less, and making a contribution to the CFF. The stage is set for me to humbly ask....

He wanted to ask me: Why are you doing this?

The curious farmer.

I keep thinking about the people I've met in Cuba. Naturally, each person is different in many ways yet, in one way, they're the same: curious. In my experience, the people in Cuba are more curious than the cats.

One farmer, especially, keeps sitting in my mind, just as he did the day I met him. He was the host on the day I drove deep into the Sierra Maestra mountains to deliver a carload of suitcases overflowing with clothing and other supplies for the rural families. He placed a table in the yard beside his rambling farmhouse, then sat down on a log to watch as my friend and I arranged the display of gifts.

Suitcases full of free clothing for families in the mountains.

He kept watching me. But, he wasn't watching in a leering, finger-biting way. He was simply and sincerely curious. I could tell he wanted to ask me something but knew our lack of a mutual language would make conversation impossible. His curiosity was bigger than his pigeon English and my pichón Español could satisfy, even with hand gestures; there was no point in cooking frustration stew. So, he just watched me.

I took many random pictures that day, as I always do, of the suitcases, of the people picking out clothes, of the abundant turkeys, of the farmers and their families. I took several pictures of this man but, whenever my camera was focused on him, he became shy. He would glance slightly away and his half-smile would dim.

A few of the many turkeys at a farm I visited.

Now, in my mind, he sits on his small log, wearing his straw hat and looking directly at me, still wanting to ask his question: Why are you doing this?

I have thought about how I would answer him. I have thought about it a lot because he's not the only one who wants to know. I do too. Why am I working so hard to help the people in this isolated, impoverished part of rural Cuba?

The short answer is: Because I can. The longer, less blithe answer is a work in progress. Every time I try to answer this question,  I feel like I am chasing feathers in the wind. Sometimes I can grasp one reason, but then another dances by and it must be added to the collection of whys.

This time, the longer answer begins this way: The place and its people have put a mark upon my heart. I have been invisibly tattooed. They have branded my soul. Does that sound blithe too? I don't mean to seem casual about this. What I feel regarding this piece of Cuba is very serious but very hard to definitively confine. It's a big, open-hearted something that makes me cry and smile at the same time, for no reason and because of everything.

Perhaps you could say it's a spiritual calling. Or, maybe it's karma. I really don't know why I feel so connected to this community. I just am. So, I will keep doing what I can to help improve the lives of the people in and around Marea del Portillo and Pilón, in the cradle of land between the sea and the Sierra Maestra mountains, where my heart is gently rocked.

The Little Resort That Could: Marea del Portillo

The following post is a review that I recently wrote for TripAdvisor.com. I'm apparently on my way to earning some kind of virtual badge....whatever!

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Just like the hero of the children’s story “The Little Engine That Could,” Club Amigo Marea del Portillo keeps chugging along, and accomplishing more than others might anticipate.

There will always be bumps in the road – and, since it’s in Cuba, there will be goats too. Despite the obstacles, however, I see improvements at the little resort every time I visit. In April (2012), I was there for my seventh stay, which is a very small number compared to many of the “repeaters” who have considered this their second home for well over a decade. Club Amigo Farallon del Caribe – Marea del Portillo may be a tiny dot on the tourism radar but it has one of the highest return-visitor rates of any resort on the island, perhaps even THE highest.

This resort is in a rather obscure location along the southern sole of Cuba, deep in the historically significant Granma region. It’s primarily an agricultural area, not known for its cultural activities. Don’t plan to see the Cuban ballet in Pilón, the nearest town of any significant size. Don’t expect to shop anywhere except the resort “tienda.” But, if you are looking for “authentic Cuba,” you will find it here. In fact, it will be delivered with a smile, time and again, by almost everyone you meet, either at the resort or in the adjacent village of the same name, Marea del Portillo.

Keep in mind, though, that this place is at the low end of the food chain, in more ways than one. This humble resort is one of the smallest in the Club Amigo chain, and it’s physically and metaphorically on the wrong side of the mountain when it comes to supplies. That means the buffet may not always have the widest selection and the bar may not have the best booze options all the time, but there are many factors involved.

This was the case when I was there for three weeks in April. Sunwing had suspended summer service; my departing flight on April 26 was supposed to be the last plane until Nov. 1, when flights would again begin arriving from Toronto (Nov. 15 from Montreal). The Farallon del Caribe, the largest hotel of the resort, closed April 19 and nobody knew for sure if the beachfront Marea hotel and cabanas would continue to operate during the summer.

I am not a picky person but, even I began to find the buffet a bit of a challenge; I was glad there were some newly opened restaurants in the village, within walking distance of the resort. Then, during my final week, everything changed. Sunwing reinstated its usual weekly summer flights and guests would begin arriving at the resort April 26, May 3, and so forth. Staff smiles grew wider and relief was apparent in many eyes – they would not be laid off after all. And, suddenly, the buffet was overflowing with a tasty array of fresh offerings, including lobster, to my great delight!

Perhaps the management had been hesitant to reorder food supplies because they feared the resort would have to close. I don’t know but, to me, that would have been a logical business decision – cutting losses. If so, I certainly wouldn’t fault them. However, I can also understand that some people who were there earlier in April may have gone home grumbling about the paltry food options at the resort. Well, all I can say is, I ate well during my last week!

Food aside, this little resort keeps chugging along in other ways too. I see physical improvements every time I go, which is usually twice a year – I now organize group trips in the shoulder seasons, April and October. Last year, they installed a large grill and covered dining area beside the Marea hotel pool, and it is an excellent addition. This year, they are rebuilding a thatched gazebo between that hotel and the beach. It will be at least twice the previous size and, the rumor is, this structure may become another bar or eatery of some sort, possibly with 24/7 service. I’ve also heard that more renovations to the Marea hotel are on the agenda; it’s the oldest part of the resort complex, so that makes sense.

Before I developed an attachment to this place and its people, I had preferred to go somewhere different almost every I could travel. If I returned to the same location, I would merely use it as a stepping stone for broader exploration. Now that I’ve gotten to know Marea del Portillo, I find that I want to keep going back and exploring in a different way; I want to get to know the community and learn more about authentic Cuban life.

This little resort, Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, provides a safe, comfortable and affordable base for me, as it does for the dozens of repeat visitors. It may not have the highest rating in some travel guides but it gets five stars in many hearts!

– Jenny Cressman (written May 25, 2012)

Now booking Oct. 31 trip to Marea del Portillo

UPDATE: OFFICIAL PRICES ARE NOW 8 NIGHTS/$636 OR 15 NIGHTS/$838 BUT I NEED TO HEAR FROM YOU BY JUNE 6.  ~  JENNY

The information below is a notice I sent out recently to my "You're invited to Cuba!" email list. Since I sent it, the prices posted on the Sunwing website have dropped; I'm awaiting a revised quote. 

Going out on a mathematical limb, I would guess the new prices will be approx. 8 nights/$630 and 15 nights/$835 - no promises! All I can say is that I get a rate that is slightly better than what is on the website - and I pass that on to my groups without taking a percentage for myself.

Of course, if you wish to contribute financially to my humanitarian work, you can use the "Donate" button in the right column of my blog. You can donate regardless of whether you choose to travel with me or not! It is another way to help this rural, impoverished region of southern Cuba.

All-Girl-Yoga-Posse 2011 - Bendy Wendy Martin leading yoga at sunrise.

CUBA Oct. 31, 2012 trip - book by June 6

Yes, that's right, you need to plan ahead if you want to join the next All-Girl-Yoga-Posse trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, Cuba! 

Why so early? Because I got a great price, if we book now...

VIP Cabana (upgraded all-inclusive package)

       8 nights:  $678

       15 nights:  $888

Please note that these prices include EVERYTHING - food, beverages, accommodation, flight and all taxes. AND, we'll have an extra day to play because we depart on a Wednesday but return on a Thursday due to Sunwing's seasonal schedule change.

       Depart:  Oct. 31

       Return:  Nov. 8 or 15

Wendy Martin of Sacred Breath Yoga will be offering yoga on the beach during the first week (Oct. 31-Nov. 8). This is a separate option, so it's not included in the package price; her fee (to be confirmed) will likely be $60-65/week for up to two yoga classes each day - a great deal!

In order to book you, I need three things by June 6:

       1. Your name as it appears on your passport

       2. Your date of birth

       3. A non-refundable deposit of $150 CDN

When you reply with the above info., please indicate whether you want to go for one or two weeks and how you will pay the deposit. If it's more convenient, you can use my PayPal account (the "Donate" button on my blog: cubanacorazon.blogspot.ca), send money via email or drop it off at my store. There should also be time to snail-mail me a cheque.

Please do NOT pay the full amount at this time because there is a very good chance I will be able to get a price reduction in the next two months - another reason why booking early is advantageous!

This notice is going out to a large e-list that includes men; please pass the invitation on to any women in your life who may want to join the posse. I do not plan to send out any more mass emails regarding this special offer. My apologies to those who are not interested or are receiving this twice. 

I already have about a dozen women who have indicated that they want to go on this trip, which is especially nice because most have travelled with me previously and they're wonderful! Now, however, I need your money, honey....by June 6.

Two more things: 

- I will be able to add more people after the booking deadline BUT how many I can add will depend on how many I book initially (a Sunwing group booking quirk). So, I need to book as many people as possible by June 6.

- Those of you who were on the Oct. 2011 trip will probably remember Wally & Eileen Cringle, the group's adopted grandparents; they want to book as part of our posse this year. I hope nobody minds that I'm making an exception to the women-only rule...I won't require Wally to have a sex change!

And, on that note, I'm finally out of things to say!

Book away,

Jenny

Event held to support projects helping rural Cuba

The following media release was used to promote a recent event that raised money for my Cuba projects. We didn't have as big a turn-out as we had hoped, so we didn't make a huge heap of money but we had fun and spread the word at least a little. We will probably try do another event in late summer or early fall.
 

May 12 event to raise money for humanitarian work in Cuba

When most people go to an all-inclusive Caribbean resort, they like to lounge by the pool or hang out on the beach, but one Huntsville resident has little time for that when she visits Cuba.

The first time Jenny Cressman went to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, a small resort in Cuba’s rural Granma region, it was essentially a fluke. “My girlfriend and I simply picked the cheapest beach we could find one winter,” she said. “But, very quickly, I became hooked on the place. I literally fell in love with the country and the people of the community surrounding the resort.”

Since that initial visit in 2009, Cressman has been returning to the same location twice annually, usually leading groups that sometimes swell to over 40 participants. With the support of the people who travel with her, as well as family and friends at home, she has been able to do what she refers to as “small-scale humanitarian work” in one of the more remote, impoverished parts of Cuba. “I’m doing whatever I can to help people in this area, which is primarily agricultural.”

In order to facilitate further work, a fundraising event has been planned for May 12, 1-4 p.m., in Huntsville’s Sutherland Hall. Billed as the “Cuban Friends’ Fund Art and Fashion Show,” tickets are $10 each or two for $15. All ticket money will go to the CFF, along with a portion of proceeds from any artwork sold during the show.

The event will include a fashion show with models from the local high school, an assortment of artwork on display and for sale, a concert by the Huntsville Youth Choir, drumming with Adam Fisher, yoga with Wendy Martin and an opportunity for mini reflexology treatments by Laura Heming. The fashion show will begin about 2 p.m., featuring clothes from reVIBE! and hairstyles by Alberto Salon and Spa. It will be followed by a door prize draw. The afternoon will end on a high note with music led by Ruth Cassie.

“While I was in Cuba,” Cressman commented, “staff from Alberto Salon and reVIBE! have been working on planning this event to support my projects, which is really wonderful.” During the most recent trip, in April, she and her group were able to take 10 bicycles and several hundred pounds of clothing, toiletries, solar lights and other vital items. Most of these gifts were distributed in rural areas, to people who don’t ordinarily have the opportunity to interact with tourists. “One farmer was so grateful, he tried to give me a live turkey.”

This is the farmer who wanted to give me a thank-you turkey!

Organizers hope that, even if people aren’t able to attend Saturday’s event, they will consider buying tickets as a way to assist in raising money for this special cause. Tickets are available at reVIBE! (705-788-5078), Alberto Salon and Spa (705-788-2700) and a few other locations in Huntsville.

I  took clothes and other gifts to families in the Sierra Maestra Mountains.

Waiting, wiping: toilet paper is important in Cuba!

Right now, as I am writing this, I am waiting for a reply from my Sunwing rep about booking my April 2012 group trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo.

I don't want to use the phone, lest she call back. I don't want to stray too far from the computer, lest she email. So, I decided to occupy my time by catching up on a little online reading, starting with my favorite news blog, Havana Times. Front and center on the home page today is a piece entitled: "Weighing in on Toilet Paper in Cuba" by Maria Matienzo Puerto, whose down-to-earth writing I particularly enjoy.

It's funny that this piece has caught my eye because the "for Cuba" shelves in my laundry room have a heap of toilet paper, ready to pack for the April trip! It was on sale, so I stocked up. A few days ago, my hubby, Mr. Patient, asked me, "Are you really taking all that toilet paper to Cuba?"

"Yes," I said, nodding firmly. I could see he was struggling not to roll his eyes, so I quickly explained: "Toilet paper is light and bulky. My luggage is usually overweight because of all the stuff I take to give away. I figured the TP would balance things out, so I wouldn't be dinged with an overweight luggage fee at the airport, yet again. This is a cost-effective step in my travel evolution."

Mr. P. liked that answer, from the Canadian cost-analysis perspective, but I could tell he was still skeptical of the value, as perceived by the prospective recipients of these proposed gifts. Therefore, I went on to tell that I'd noticed homes did not always have what many women consider a necessity when we go "wee-wee," let alone producing "number 2." In the place of toilet paper, there may be other paper products, such as an old magazine or a child's coloring book (the latter is softer). It all depends on what is available to the household; if nothing is available, nothing is available.

Whenever I travel in Cuba, I make a habit of keeping small wads of TP in my pockets, purse and backpack, and I always advise the same for people who are part of my groups – particularly the women. And, when appropriate, I leave some of my stash behind, so the next gal to settle in for a pee (or whatever), will not be caught short.

So, I was very glad to see that my observation about the need for more TP in Cuba was corrobated today by Maria's HT piece. It's a shame that what many women consider a necessity is now a luxury for Cuban women, as she notes. I was shocked to learn that TP prices have shot up so much that it now costs 30% of her wages which, I am guessing, are average. If Maria lived closer to where I will be visiting in April, I would gladly give her a few rolls! Maybe one day....

Meanwhile, I hope she knows she has something more valuable than TP from me; she has my respect. Okay, you can't wipe your "toto" with it, I know, but respect has a certain intrinsic value, even if it's not particularly useful. Right?

GIFTS: The short list, 2012 update

I've begun visiting Cuba regularly, organizing groups to travel with me to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, a wonderful little resort in the southern end of the island. Because of this relatively new role as tour leader and Cuba-vangelist, I am frequently asked questions about the country. I always do my best to answer intellegently but, in all honesty, I am no expert!

With that general disclaimer in mind, I am putting forward my short list of suggestions in response to the #1 FAQ: "What gifts should I take to Cuba?" For a more comprehensive answer and longer list, please read my earlier (2010) blog post, entitled "GIFTS: What's most appreciated?" 

The 2012 short list of most useful gift ideas:

- Clothing of all types & sizes (even light jackets)
- Shoes, socks & underwear (for adults & children)
- Any basic drugstore or medicine-cabinet supplies  
     [Please check expiry dates on consumables!] 
- Toiletries like deodorant, soap, shampoo, toothbrushes/paste, etc.
- Feminine products (tampons & pads) & razors
- Paper, pens, pencils, etc. (school supplies & for adults too)
- Wind-up flashlights (batteries can be hard to get)
- Flint igniters or lighters for gas stoves (not matches)
- Solar yard lights (can be used indoors during power outages)
- USB devices (flashdrives can be loaded with movies, music, etc.)

Three items that I've added to my personal list are flint igniters, solar lights and flashdrives. These are not things I've found on any other lists; the additions are based on my own observations and experiences.

On one of my earliest trips, I asked an amigo what he felt would be useful for me to bring on another visit. He suggested lighters because many people cook with gas and, in the humidity, matches won't always work. Rather than contribute to waste in Cuba by taking disposable lighters, I began taking spark igniters - available at hardware stores because they are mainly used here for lighting welding torches. They run about $5 each.

I began taking solar-powered yard lights after visiting a friend in the village of Marea del Portillo, as it was getting dark. He had a cranky wind-up flashlight that barely illuminated the critters he was trying to show off. (If it quacks, it must be a duck!) So, on my next trip, I literally lit up his life with solar torches. Several Cuban friends I've also given them to say that they use these yard lights inside their homes when the electricity flickers off in the evening, as it frequently does.

I watch for sales and buy boxes of solar lights whenever possible. The best deals have been about $40 for a box of 20; in other words, about $2/each. I have seen some at dollar stores for less money but they are also cheaper with respect to quality and amount of illumnation. People will be appreciative of any solar lights but I try to take models I think will last at least until my next trip!

More recently, I've begun taking USB devices (a.k.a. flashdrives, flash keys, thumb drives, etc.). Again, I watch closely for sale prices and have sometimes been able to pick up 8-GB drives for about $12/each, on average. These are pricier gifts but light and compact (my suitcases are usually heavy and overflowing) and, most importantly, they are extremely useful in Cuba. People typically use them to share movies, music and games, as well as information.

That last point is especially worth noting. Most Cubans do not have Internet access, even if they have computers. By downloading info on world events to a USB key, they can share international news with many people. Thus, they can learn about current events, albeit a bit belatedly. (For instance, they may not have learned of Whitney Houston's death two minutes after it occurred, like many North Americans did.) Also, the lives of expensive, hard-to-get electronic equipment can be extended by using a USB port instead of the more delicate disk drive.

Okay, I've blithered on again for much longer than I'd intended - I had wanted to keep this post short! Oh, well, I'm a writer. Once my fingers start dancing, it's sometimes hard to stop them....

Embargo's golden anniversary: failure to thrive

This is an open letter to whomever it may concern, including President Barack Obama.

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Dear Mr. O.,

Let me start by stating that I don't really like politics; I'm not a fan of any blood sport. You, however, seem more human and humane than many politicians. Maybe I'm a deluded optimist but I believe you have a little more integrity than most of your power-seeking predecessors in that big white house, and I think you have a heart.

As of this month, February 2012, it has been a full 50 years since JFK authorized an economic embargo against Cuba. It has remained in place under 10 U.S. presidents and a pair of Castros but, in all that time, what has been accomplished? The indefatigable Cuban government soldiers on – including many of the old guard who physically fought to liberate the country from Batista, a truly bloody politician. If the goal was to crush the country's spirit and arm wrestle the Cuban government into financial submission, it hasn't worked. After half a century, isn't it time to call it a draw and move on to projects that will actually benefit humanity?

I've been to Cuba a few times and, let me tell you, those folks are incredibly resilient, resourceful and more than a tad bit stubborn. They are not going to roll over and show you their bellies. They've been through worse and survived. In fact, they didn't just survive, they sang and danced.

But, Mr. O., I want you know, this continued blockade is hard on the politically innocent people of the country; I'm thinking, in particular, of the Cubans who are younger than the embargo. They have free education and free health care but they don't always have enough food, jobs are scarce as hen's teeth and the light at the end of the tunnel is very dim. Yet, they survive. They make do. They help each other. They barter. They work under the table. They make friends with tourists. As a whole, they're very friendly people, hard working and incredibly family oriented. That may be what has kept them going in dark times – their strong sense of camaraderie which, to my mind, echoes the attitudes of the Dirty '30s in America.

The national feeling of all being in it together, I suspect, is part of the reason why this 50-year-old embargo has not worked. When people stand together, it's hard to knock 'em down. Why keep trying? The country is not doing as well as it could be but they're not going to give up.

If Cuba were a child, one might diagnose it as having FTT – failure to thrive. Havana Times writer Fernando Ravsberg recently interviewed Johana Tablada, the deputy director of the North American Division of the Cuban Ministry of Foreign Affairs, who said just that. He asked her about the damage this protracted embargo has done and she stated: "...the essential harm is that Cuba has been prevented from developing itself to its full potential." [The full article is worth reading, as is a related piece by Ravsberg.] Cuba is surviving but not thriving.

Despite their collective struggles, however, the Cuban people have accomplished a lot, particularly in the world of medicine – Cuban doctors and other medical personnel are internationally renowned. I think you know more about this "soft diplomacy" than I do, Mr. O., since you commented on it at the 5th Summit of the Americas in 2009. [For more information on this topic, here's a link.] In addition to medicine, Cubans excel at many things, from music to baseball; I can't help but wonder what they could accomplish if the embargo did not impede their progress. They've done so well while merely surviving, what could they achieve if they were given the freedom to thrive?

Fifty years have passed, Mr. O. Rather than mark the golden anniversary of a dismal decree, why not make this a golden opportunity for positive change? Shouldn't the next generation of Cuban children be given a better chance to have productive lives? Wouldn't the world be improved, overall, if Cubans had more freedom to pursue economic opportunities through trade and travel? I'm no political analyst but, from my humble, semi-educated perspective, I believe it would.

 Sincerely,
 JennyC.

POEM: Alchemic Sky

Life has been so busy for me lately that I rarely have time to write anything other than email. This poem, which was inspired by seeing a beautiful sunset when I was driving home from work this evening, was a blessing. I saw the sky - so beautiful as the sun was melting into gold - and I thought of alchemy, that special magic which turns ordinary things into precious gold and then....as always, my thoughts turned to Cuba.


Alchemic Sky
(A poem for Cuba)

I want to be the alchemic night
and melt the moon to honey;
I know you are hungry.

I want to be the alchemic day
and turn the sun to gold bars;
I know you need money.

I want to be the alchemic stars
and make your dreams seem possible;
I know you want more.

I want to be the alchemic sky
and change the world.


~ Jennifer R. Cressman
February 8, 2012

Booking groups to Cuba is a challenge with Sunwing!

Dear readers,

As many of you know, I have been organizing group trips to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, Cuba, twice a year. In 2010, I started doing the booking myself and not charging anything for my services because I wanted to keep the cost as low as possible. My goal was to encourage more people to travel to this small resort in the shoulder seasons (April & October), in order to help the local economy and the people of this community.

It didn't seem complicated to book trips for groups. Let me revise that: it shouldn't be complicated to book trips for groups. Maybe it isn't complicated with some international travel companies but, with Sunwing, it is. From my perspective at the present moment, in fact, it is crazy-making!

Without going into all the gory details as to why I feel incited to insanity, let me just say this: Sunwing's group booking rules seem designed to discourage group travel; they are obtuse and should be revised.

However, I don't give up easily. I will be taking a group to Marea del Portillo in April and I am continuing to work on getting the best possible prices for everyone who wants to join me. Unfortunately, Sunwing is the only airline that services this resort, so I must play the game according to their rules. That means I am learning new forms of patience and trying not to grind my teeth too hard.

I can't give you any firm prices for the April trip yet but I am remaining confident that the two-week rate will be around $1,000 and the one-week rate will be close to $800 for the VIP Cabana package - hopefully less - including the fuel surcharge, which is presently $290. This all-inclusive deal covers your flight and taxes, food and beverages, accommodation and a selection of perks, such as a lobster dinner on a lovely island. Here is a link that gives you an overview of the resort; if you scroll down the list, you will see what is included in the VIP package. I prefer staying in a cabana because they are quieter and more private but, if your budget is snug, I can book you into the beach-front hotel, right next door to the cabanas.

This group will be departing from Toronto in two stages: April 5 for the two-weekers and April 12 for those going for a single week. The return date will be April 19.

During the second week (April 12-19), there will be some special options available for those who are so inclined. Wendy Martin of Sacred Breath Yoga Studio will be offering yoga on the beach. Wendy Oke of Alma Matters will be available to lead a mini-workshop on art and spirituality, with respect to 2012 and Cuba. Karen Wehrstein, who excels in many styles of writing - from journalism to fantasy - is also hoping to join this travel posse and lead a writing workshop.

As well, as always, I will be arranging some special activities for my groupies (so to speak). I'll announce those details later. Meanwhile...

Keep smiling,
Jenny

The Cuban Revolution and me: love and freedom

I have something in common with the Cuban Revolution: 1959. Cuba was officially freed from Batista's bloody dictatorship in January of that year and, nine months later, I was born. 

We're both over 50 now, the Revolution and I, but we don't always act our age, and we certainly don't look it! Maybe I'm just speaking for myself. I'm not sure how Revolutionaries are supposed to behave after five decades as the Government. Maybe they're not sure either. And, regarding looks, well...most of those freedom-fighting young men who rose to power are now 80-something old men, if they're alive at all. So, no matter how well preserved they may be, they're going to have gray hair, wrinkles and saggy body parts – more than me! 

After 50 years, what's different? I can't speak for the CR, of course, but I tire more easily and sometimes wake up a bit stiff. My mind's still sharp, obviously (haha!), but I have noticed it's harder to remember names and what I was looking for when I opened the fridge. Again, I can't speak for the Revolution. Despite the significant milestone we share, I'm not sure how much the CR and I actually have in common, except for this: the love of Cuba and desire for freedom.

Cuba gained freedom from a cruel dictator in 1959 but, after 50 years, is the country truly free? That probably depends on who you talk to and how you define it. I think there are many different shades of freedom. It's not a black and white issue. Nor is it strictly red, white and blue. The U.S. embargo or blockade against Cuba, begun in 1960, has certainly limited the country's freedom to trade internationally. But, there are always ways to do business, if you really want to.

Wikipedia notes this: "At present [2011], the embargo, which limits American businesses from conducting business with Cuban interests, is still in effect and is the most enduring trade embargo in modern history. Despite the existence of the embargo, the United States is the fifth largest exporter to Cuba (6.6% of Cuba's imports are from the US). However, Cuba must pay cash for all imports, as credit is not allowed."

Cuba's relationship with the States is complicated, to say the least, but it can't be denied that Big Brother Sam carries a lot of world-wide weight and this embargo marathon has had a huge impact on the people of Cuba. I'm not a political scholar by any stretch of the imagination – mine nor anyone else's  – but, if I've understood the history of this correctly, the trade blockade was intended to gain freedom for the Cuban people. Hmm.... When does one say this plan is not working?

Whenever people talk about Cuba, the embargo looms large. That monstrosity, however, is not the only shadow on freedom. Americans have not been able to travel freely to Cuba since 1963. The U.S. government does not completely ban its citizens from traveling to Cuba but there are severe restrictions and, from my reading, spending money seems to be a primary concern. (Here's a good link on this topic: Americans in Cuba.)

Cubans, however, live with even more restrictions regarding travel than their American cousins, and the restrictions apply to everywhere – not just the hulking chunk of land to their immediate north. (Here's a good article from Havana Times about this: The (Non) Right of Cubans to Travel.)

I love to travel, especially to Cuba, and I wholeheartedly wish my Cuban friends could travel too. Some would want to come here to Canada to work for awhile, to help their families get ahead financially. Others would just want to visit Canada and other countries briefly because they are simply curious. Why shouldn't they have the chance to do both?

I've thinking about this a lot lately, wishfully, because I know of a little girl who was born with an illness that will dramatically shorten her life. She wants to know what snow is like. How can I explain "snow" to an eight-year-old Cuban girl? Right now, I have such a lovely landscape outside my wintry window, I can imagine her looking at it with awe and playing in it with glee. It would be wonderful if she could apply to Make-A-Wish International and be granted a trip to Canada to see this beautiful snow, and maybe Niagara Falls while we're at it. But, Cuba is not on the list of participating countries. Why? I don't know, but I did notice that the parent foundation is based in the U.S. Hmm....

I know changes are coming. There have been several significant changes in Cuba in the past year, and more are proposed. There is now greater freedom to buy and sell houses and vehicles. I hope more freedom to travel is on the list of what's to come, and I hope it will happen while my young friend is still able to travel. I'm just afraid it won't. Afterall, it has been over 50 years since the Revolution took power, and we are still only part of the way to full freedom for Cuba. If/when the American-made trade embargo is lifted, I'm sure changes will come more quickly.

There is little I can do to hasten change. However, I have come up with one small way to help my young friend understand what snow is like, aside from sending piles of pictures. When I travel to Cuba in April, I will be taking a very special present for her: a snow globe.

  ------------

If you are interested in traveling to Cuba with me in April, please send an email to jcgb@vianet.ca. I am organizing a group that will be based at Marea del Portillo, my favorite little resort. You can go for two weeks (April 5-19) or one week (April 12-19). Yoga on the beach, a Cuban-Canadian art show and many other optional opportunities for fun and frolic are in the works. I will provide prices and other details soon.

New project in the works: suitcase sponsorship!

A few years ago, I began organizing groups of interesting and interested people to travel with me to Cuba. But, we're not going just anywhere in Cuba; we're going to a very special place called Marea del Portillo, where many a Canadian tourist has left a chunk of heart. This is a small, low-key Club Amigo resort on the southern foot of Cuba. It's at the opposite end of the island from Havana and the opposite end of the spectrum from the posh over-stuffed hotel complexes of Varadero, and the laid-back atmosphere is exactly why I like it!

Club Amigo Marea del Portillo and Farallón del Caribe are the only hotels in this nook of the Granma province. The diminutive resort is set like a gem on the hem of a horseshoe bay, fringed by the majestic Sierra Maestra Mountains. This is a sleepy agricultural area, over the hill and far away from the relative hustle and bustle of mid-sized urban areas like Bayamo and Manzanillo de Cuba, where the nearest international airport is located.

If you travel with one of my groups to Marea, you will fly into and out of Manzanillo, which is about an hour and a half drive away from the resort. Don't worry - you won't need to hitch-hike! Once you board the plane in Toronto, you're in the hands of Sunwing, and you will be well taken care of for the entire journey. Air-conditioned buses transport you from and to the airport, and staff is ready to assist at every juncture.

The staff at Marea del Portillo are very good at their jobs and, in the tourist industry, that means keeping everyone as happy as possible. It can be a challenge at times but the Marea crew is generally very good at it! The high number of returnees attests to the quality of the care here, I think. Couple that with the glorious scenery and you'll begin to understand why so many people consider it their "second home." The accommodations here aren't the most luxurious but they are clean and well cared for – and when I say "cared for," I don't just mean in the physical sense. The staff really cares for this place and for the repeat guests who have, over the years, become genuine friends. That's part of the Marea magic.

It is, of course, in the best interest of those employed by the resort to care for this place because there's a lot riding on it. This tiny dimple on the massive cheek of Cuban tourism is the most significant employer in this region. Therefore, a lot of families rely on it in a time and place where there are not many other employment options. That's one of the primary reasons why I've placed it squarely in my sites for the humanitarian work I've begun. It's also why, in part, I lead groups in April and October, during the shoulder season for tourism. My hope is that the modest injection of business I bring will help to keep a few more people employed for a little longer at the beginning and end of winter. As well, I prefer those times precisely because it is less busy - nobody has to fight for a spot on the beach.

The All-Girl-Yoga Posse greeted the sun almost every day at Marea del Portillo.

YOGA INSTRUCTOR OFFERS CLASSES EACH TRIP

When my groups are in residence, the beach becomes our yoga studio! My pal bendy Wendy Martin will now be leading yoga classes during each and every group trip I arrange. She joined me for the first time last October and quickly understood why I'd fallen in love with the place and people – and she offered to team up with me twice a year, which is wonderful. She brings a gentle, gleeful and powerfully positive spirit to the group experience. I couldn't be happier to have her along!

When not in Cuba with me, Wendy operates her own studio - Sacred Breath Yoga, in downtown Huntsville (Muskoka). In October 2011, we offered the inaugural "All-Girl-Yoga-Posse" trip. About 40 women, spanning several generations, traveled with us and many participated in yoga on the beach at sunrise and/or in the late afternoon. The flat fee for the week of yoga was $60. The April trip is open to both men and women, and yoga will be too. The rate will be similar.

Yoga instructor Wendy Martin (left) loves doing playful yoga with kids!

Wendy and many others in Muskoka and elsewhere have been beautifully supportive of the projects I've launched to enhance the community surrounding Marea del Portillo. These endeavours are embryonic but, even so, we've been able to take a dozen bikes and hundreds of pounds of clothing and other gifts to the people of this impoverished, under-serviced rural region. And, I've got lots more good stuff ready to go! My house is becoming populated with boxes and bins full of clothing, shoes, toiletries and other simple household necessities, and a small herd of bikes is corralled in the car port.


MORE SPONSORSHIP & SHEPHERDING OPTIONS

I have devised a three-pronged system for getting bikes to Cuba, and it seems to be working pretty well. People can donate a bike (adults' mountain bikes are preferred), pay $30 to sponsor a bike (that's the fee Sunwing charges for a 20-kg box o' bike) and/or, if in my tour group, shepherd a bike (a bike box becomes part of that passenger's checked luggage). A "bike shepherd" gets to use the bike he/she has helped transport to the resort but, when the shepherd goes home to Canada, the bike goes to a new home in Cuba. It would be too much hassle to take a used bike back on the plane at the end of the trip anyway, right?!

Chacho received this excellent bike in October 2011.

Since this bike shepherding project has been working so well, I plan to riff on the theme and set up a similar system for suitcases. I already have a nice collection of donated suitcases, which I will fill with clothing and such. For $40, a Sunwing airline passenger can have a seating upgrade (to what's called "Elite Plus") that includes an extra 10 kg (22 lbs.) of checked luggage capacity. A group member can become a "suitcase shepherd" for one of these loaded bags and, as a perk, will get extra leg room on the plane. Once at Marea, these suitcases and their contents, as well as the bikes, can be left at a depot I've arranged at a friend's nearby home.

With this new suitcase sponsor/shepherd option, I will be able to get more clothing into the hands of people in isolated areas who do not have jobs in the tourism sector and, therefore, have little access to foreigners and their generous gifts. That's my goal: to spread the wealth of goods further afield.

I'm excited about all of this and quite eager to begin booking but, annoyingly, the prices are higher than I prefer for a week's all-inclusive holiday at Sunwing's Club Amigo Marea del Portillo. However, the two-week rates are better, so I may start there. I'm curious to see if there will be enough people interested in going for two weeks; to make a group booking viable, 10 bodies are required. I know some people can only escape for one week but...we'll see! The April 2012 group should be quite an interesting one, I believe. There will be a loose theme of "art and spirituality" on this trip, for those who want to participate – it's optional, as is yoga. I'll explain more about that later.

Meanwhile, my bags are packed (mentally), and I have extra suitcases full of free clothing, ready to match up with sponsors and shepherds. The dates Wendy and I have tentatively set are as follows: April 5-19 (two weeks) or April 12-19 (one week). Keep in mind that Easter falls during the first week, on April 8, which may make it easier for some folks to get away...but more difficult for others. It's impossible to keep everyone happy all the time, despite valiant attempts!

Keep smiling,
Jenny