The following post is a review that I recently wrote for TripAdvisor.com. I'm apparently on my way to earning some kind of virtual badge....whatever!
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Just like
the hero of the children’s story “The Little Engine That Could,” Club Amigo
Marea del Portillo keeps chugging along, and accomplishing more than others
might anticipate.
There will
always be bumps in the road – and, since it’s in Cuba, there will be goats too.
Despite the obstacles, however, I see improvements at the little resort every
time I visit. In April (2012), I was there for my seventh stay, which is a very
small number compared to many of the “repeaters” who have considered this their
second home for well over a decade. Club Amigo Farallon del Caribe – Marea del
Portillo may be a tiny dot on the tourism radar but it has one of the highest
return-visitor rates of any resort on the island, perhaps even THE highest.
This
resort is in a rather obscure location along the southern sole of Cuba, deep in
the historically significant Granma region. It’s primarily an agricultural
area, not known for its cultural activities. Don’t plan to see the Cuban ballet
in Pilón, the nearest town of any significant size. Don’t expect to shop
anywhere except the resort “tienda.” But, if you are looking for “authentic
Cuba,” you will find it here. In fact, it will be delivered with a smile, time
and again, by almost everyone you meet, either at the resort or in the adjacent
village of the same name, Marea del Portillo.
Keep in
mind, though, that this place is at the low end of the food chain, in more ways
than one. This humble resort is one of the smallest in the Club Amigo chain,
and it’s physically and metaphorically on the wrong side of the mountain when
it comes to supplies. That means the buffet may not always have the widest
selection and the bar may not have the best booze options all the time, but
there are many factors involved.
This was
the case when I was there for three weeks in April. Sunwing had suspended
summer service; my departing flight on April 26 was supposed to be the last
plane until Nov. 1, when flights would again begin arriving from Toronto (Nov.
15 from Montreal). The Farallon del Caribe, the largest hotel of the resort,
closed April 19 and nobody knew for sure if the beachfront Marea hotel and
cabanas would continue to operate during the summer.
I am not a
picky person but, even I began to find the buffet a bit of a challenge; I was
glad there were some newly opened restaurants in the village, within walking
distance of the resort. Then, during my final week, everything changed. Sunwing
reinstated its usual weekly summer flights and guests would begin arriving at
the resort April 26, May 3, and so forth. Staff smiles grew wider and relief
was apparent in many eyes – they would not be laid off after all. And,
suddenly, the buffet was overflowing with a tasty array of fresh offerings,
including lobster, to my great delight!
Perhaps
the management had been hesitant to reorder food supplies because they feared
the resort would have to close. I don’t know but, to me, that would have been a
logical business decision – cutting losses. If so, I certainly wouldn’t fault
them. However, I can also understand that some people who were there earlier in
April may have gone home grumbling about the paltry food options at the resort.
Well, all I can say is, I ate well during my last week!
Food
aside, this little resort keeps chugging along in other ways too. I see
physical improvements every time I go, which is usually twice a year – I now
organize group trips in the shoulder seasons, April and October. Last year,
they installed a large grill and covered dining area beside the Marea hotel
pool, and it is an excellent addition. This year, they are rebuilding a
thatched gazebo between that hotel and the beach. It will be at least twice the
previous size and, the rumor is, this structure may become another bar or
eatery of some sort, possibly with 24/7 service. I’ve also heard that more
renovations to the Marea hotel are on the agenda; it’s the oldest part of the
resort complex, so that makes sense.
Before I
developed an attachment to this place and its people, I had preferred to go
somewhere different almost every I could travel. If I returned to the same
location, I would merely use it as a stepping stone for broader exploration.
Now that I’ve gotten to know Marea del Portillo, I find that I want to keep going
back and exploring in a different way; I want to get to know the community and
learn more about authentic Cuban life.
This
little resort, Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, provides a safe, comfortable and
affordable base for me, as it does for the dozens of repeat visitors. It may
not have the highest rating in some travel guides but it gets five stars in
many hearts!
– Jenny
Cressman (written May 25, 2012)
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